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1. Bat Cave
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Crystal Therapy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Freebourne
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: tim naylor on Aug 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Above the difficult finger-locking-with-no-feet st...

Description 

Start off a boulder with finger locks and swing up to jugs, being careful when clipping the 2nd bolt. Go left and up wild pockets to a crack then to the anchors. Pumpy but some rests. Might want to tape right ring finger. Can you find the crystal?


Location 

First route on right side of cave proper, on a stack of boulders.


Protection 

6 bolts? to anchor



Comments on Crystal Therapy Add Comment
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By Mike Howard
Administrator
Aug 22, 2007

Jay and I placed a lower second bolt and moved the upper one to eliminate the ground fall at the second clip (as we had discussed). That first bolt, however, was exactly where it needed to be. Great initial moves to a sustained route. Prized onsight. Mike and Tim, thanks for the great work...ground up, bolted on lead, great style.

By tim naylor
Aug 23, 2007

thanks for the fix, it is relativley easy there but I almost fell due to pump, I got the draw on but didn't have the strength to clip the rope, and grabbed the draw to save myself from a grounder.

By tim naylor
Sep 23, 2008

a report of this routes first move being harder than the crux on fang shui

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 12, 2012

Stick clip highly recommended. I had more difficulty than I typically have on 12a with the crux at the first bolt but powerful moves with no feet don't suit my style so don't take my opinion for much value if you're strong.