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Routes in South Cliffband
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Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Adam Read |
| Page Views: | 1,634 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jun 26, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This brilliant chunk of stone features two distinct sections of climbing, highlighted by an extremely devious boulder problem crux. Begin left of the arete on a nice flat boulder.
Stick clip the first bolt, then traverse right onto the hanging face using the obvious large pocket. This looks much more difficult than it is. Continue up along the face on relatively easy (5.10+), ultra-classic pockets, occasionally groping left around the arete. At mid-height the line heads right to a series of diagonal rails, and finally a huge pocket that offers a final rest before the crux.
At this point you may be thinking the route feels rather easy for 11d... Extreme body english, smearing, slopers, pinches, gastons and other gymnastic maneuvers surmount the next 8 feet of featureless stone. Once at the fifth bolt, easier terrain leads to the sub-par anchor
Stick clip the first bolt, then traverse right onto the hanging face using the obvious large pocket. This looks much more difficult than it is. Continue up along the face on relatively easy (5.10+), ultra-classic pockets, occasionally groping left around the arete. At mid-height the line heads right to a series of diagonal rails, and finally a huge pocket that offers a final rest before the crux.
At this point you may be thinking the route feels rather easy for 11d... Extreme body english, smearing, slopers, pinches, gastons and other gymnastic maneuvers surmount the next 8 feet of featureless stone. Once at the fifth bolt, easier terrain leads to the sub-par anchor
Location
This route is on the South end of the South Cliffband, beyond/right/south of the rockslide. This is the 7th bolted route encountered after the rockslide, immediately right of Sanadine Dream. Also, CS is the next route left of Strange Attractor, which ascends an obvious overhanging arete that juts out over the trail.
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