Cryptic 5.8
| 7,298 page views Good page? (1 like)  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Mark Powell, 1970 |
| Submitted By: | Brian Reynolds on May 5, 2002 |
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Jasyn Klamborowski on Cryptic
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Description Cryptic is significantly steeper and a bit more strenuous than the SW Corner, but by going up the right side of Headstone's south face, it stays over the ground and thus lacks SW Corner's incredible exposure. Nevertheless, it's a fun, well-protected, straight-up line in an amazing location. Not ready to lead it? The bolts up top are perfectly set up to TR this route, if you can manage to beat the crowds (much easier said than done).
Protection 4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")
BETA PHOTO: Climbers on Headstone Rock (((2-29-2004)))
| Brian Smith cruising Cryptic. Skip Garibaldi phot...
| My daughter hiking Cryptic
| Kelly makes the mantle
| Kelly ticks her first lead on real rock at age 14
| We had just climbed S/W Corner and I was setting u...
| Rapping down the front face of crptic.
| Scott on the summit of the Headstone with Ryan cam...
| Rapping down the front side of Cryptic after a gre...
| Super fun route with great finger and foot holds i...
| "Cryptic" Photo by Blitzo.
| Shiloh on Cryptic -Sat April 8th
| Lowering Dalon back down Cryptic; VERY g...
| The rappel off the North side of Headstone Rock is...
| show off
| BETA PHOTO: My roommate Dan and co-worker Emily
| Unknown climber on Cryptic
| Sascha Madrid on Cryptic
| Cryptic
| Posing on the jug hold of Cryptic
| Cryptic
| BETA PHOTO: Rappel anchors for getting down off Headstone (ove...
| BETA PHOTO: Top rope anchors for Cryptic.
| me leading Cryptic. Photo by James Marca
| Reardon soloing, photo by Damon Corso
| Cryptic, photo Dave Rockwell, climber John Ely, Oc...
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By Locker From: Westminster, CO Aug 29, 2003 rating: 5.8
| Steve, you were right about being able to sling the "Horn". But it was not needed so I didn't. But it would be easy to do, though unnecessary. It's a pretty cool little climb though. And the view is hard to beat. Needless to say, as we did when we did the So.Corner, we of course hiked in. Boy was it a long hike. Wish they would open Ryan so we could just drive on in. But being the "Boyscout" that I am, ...................and upstanding citizen....................... |
By Steven Powers Oct 1, 2003 rating: 5.8
| i know at the top of the route it is pretty easy climbing but, anything can happen, after the last bolt the route gets kind of run out, so to keep from taking a long fall all you have to do is flip your rope behing one of the large flakes/horns at the top, or sling it either way it will keep you much safer. Peace. |
By C Miller Administrator Dec 11, 2003 rating: 5.8
| Great moves and position with an easy approach. Worth repeating at least once every season. Four stars out of five. |
By Randy Dec 17, 2003
| FA of this fine climb was done in 1970/1 by Mark Powell who placed only a single bolt and used a pin or 2 higher. The other 2 bolts were added later by unknown climbers. |
By Locker From: Westminster, CO May 19, 2004 rating: 5.8
| Did this one again and agree that it is worth doing. SoW Corner also again and again. Both good ones for the masses........... |
By Anonymous Coward Feb 26, 2005
| I don't know about using the rap anchors up top for TR. They are fairly centered on the formation, if I remember correctly, and a fall could allow a big swing over the south face of the formation. Also, I didn't see any moves over 5.7. Nice route. |
By Jason Shatek Apr 7, 2005
| Watched my climbing compadre TR this route, its more straight up and down than SW corner, more straight forward. From what I hear the moves ain't bad either. |
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Jun 11, 2006 rating: 5.8
| Excellent route that "feels" more safe than SW corner not that that route is bad. All the holds are there and the bolts are well placed. Don't worry about that featureless section up high, move right and its an easy romp to the top!! |
By Blitzo Sep 25, 2006
| A good route! |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Oct 22, 2006
| It's been along time since I did this one. Repeated it yesterday and had a blast - what a fun route - don't know where the crux was, but didn't do any mantles. Melody Wong followed in Tevas (she doesn't recommend it) toting a huge SLR digital camera with a zoom lens. I think this is a classic. |
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Apr 8, 2007
| Fun, fun, fun! Be sure to walk the upper ledge with your hands, not your feet, so you can hang from the horn for that shameless photo op. ;-) And try it at night sometime! |
By marryellenman From: Midvale, UT Jan 4, 2011 rating: 5.9
| Sweet, This was the best climb I did on my first trip to JT. |
By Harrison Dreves From: Nashville, TN Feb 17, 2011
| Anyone else get a sweet heelhook and campus move around the jug :) Super fun to do at dusk! |
By UpRope Feb 18, 2011
| An excellent JT classic and a very smooth lead.One to do again and again.Superb location.There's a photo in the old Wolfe/Dominick guidebook of someone climbing Headstone in tennis shoes in the 1950s.The FA of this formation was apparently accomplished by throwing a rope over the top and batmaning up. |
By Canon Nov 7, 2011
| Awesome climb, great Cliffhanger photo op 2/3 of the way up. On top are two older bolts with ring hangers and three new metolius bolts with two chains. Bring webbing to extend the anchor for TRing this climb or SW corner. |
By Brandon Bateman From: La Crescenta, CA Jan 21, 2013 rating: 5.8
| This is a must-do climb for any level climber in j-tree. |
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