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Headstone Rock
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cryptic 
Cutting Edge, The 
Headbanger's Ball 
Headmaster 
South Face Center 
SW Corner 

Cryptic 

5.8

   
7,298 page views
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
FA: Mark Powell, 1970
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on May 5, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (137)
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Jasyn Klamborowski on Cryptic

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Description 

Cryptic is significantly steeper and a bit more strenuous than the SW Corner, but by going up the right side of Headstone's south face, it stays over the ground and thus lacks SW Corner's incredible exposure.

Nevertheless, it's a fun, well-protected, straight-up line in an amazing location. Not ready to lead it? The bolts up top are perfectly set up to TR this route, if you can manage to beat the crowds (much easier said than done).


Protection 

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")



Photos of Cryptic Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers on Headstone Rock (((2-29-2004)))

BETA PHOTO: Climbers on Headstone Rock (((2-29-2004)))

Brian Smith cruising Cryptic.  Skip Garibaldi photo, 5/03.

Brian Smith cruising Cryptic. Skip Garibaldi phot...

My daughter hiking Cryptic

My daughter hiking Cryptic

Kelly makes the mantle

Kelly makes the mantle

Kelly ticks her first lead on real rock at  age 14

Kelly ticks her first lead on real rock at age 14

We had just climbed S/W Corner and I was setting up a rappel/top-rope for some friends on Cryptic.  This was a great climb.  Becareful rappelling down, as the natural direction of the rappel is right off the rock (open air).  My feet slipped off the rock on the way down and I took a 30 ft swing...  (This photo was taken by my friend Harry, not me).

We had just climbed S/W Corner and I was setting u...

Rapping down the front face of crptic.

Rapping down the front face of crptic.

Scott on the summit of the Headstone with Ryan camp in the background.

Scott on the summit of the Headstone with Ryan cam...

Rapping down the front side of Cryptic after a great climb!

Rapping down the front side of Cryptic after a gre...

Super fun route with great finger and foot holds if you look for them.

Super fun route with great finger and foot holds i...

"Cryptic" <br />Photo by Blitzo.

"Cryptic"
Photo by Blitzo.


Shiloh on Cryptic -Sat April 8th

Shiloh on Cryptic -Sat April 8th

Lowering Dalon back down Cryptic; VERY good route!!

Lowering Dalon back down Cryptic; VERY g...

The rappel off the North side of Headstone Rock is really fun!!

The rappel off the North side of Headstone Rock is...

show off

show off

My roommate Dan and co-worker Emily

BETA PHOTO: My roommate Dan and co-worker Emily

Unknown climber on Cryptic

Unknown climber on Cryptic

Sascha Madrid on Cryptic

Sascha Madrid on Cryptic

Cryptic

Cryptic

Posing on the jug hold of Cryptic

Posing on the jug hold of Cryptic

Cryptic

Cryptic

Rappel anchors for getting down off Headstone (over Cryptic). Keep your feel or you will swing out over the north face.

BETA PHOTO: Rappel anchors for getting down off Headstone (ove...

Top rope anchors for Cryptic.

BETA PHOTO: Top rope anchors for Cryptic.

me leading Cryptic. Photo by James Marca

me leading Cryptic. Photo by James Marca

Reardon soloing, photo by Damon Corso

Reardon soloing, photo by Damon Corso

Cryptic, photo Dave Rockwell, climber John Ely, Oct. 2012

Cryptic, photo Dave Rockwell, climber John Ely, Oc...


Comments on Cryptic Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 21, 2013
By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 29, 2003
rating: 5.8

Steve, you were right about being able to sling the "Horn". But it was not needed so I didn't. But it would be easy to do, though unnecessary. It's a pretty cool little climb though. And the view is hard to beat. Needless to say, as we did when we did the So.Corner, we of course hiked in. Boy was it a long hike. Wish they would open Ryan so we could just drive on in. But being the "Boyscout" that I am, ...................and upstanding citizen.......................

By Steven Powers
Oct 1, 2003
rating: 5.8

i know at the top of the route it is pretty easy climbing but, anything can happen, after the last bolt the route gets kind of run out, so to keep from taking a long fall all you have to do is flip your rope behing one of the large flakes/horns at the top, or sling it either way it will keep you much safer. Peace.

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 11, 2003
rating: 5.8

Great moves and position with an easy approach. Worth repeating at least once every season. Four stars out of five.

By Randy
Dec 17, 2003

FA of this fine climb was done in 1970/1 by Mark Powell who placed only a single bolt and used a pin or 2 higher. The other 2 bolts were added later by unknown climbers.

By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
May 19, 2004
rating: 5.8

Did this one again and agree that it is worth doing. SoW Corner also again and again. Both good ones for the masses...........

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 26, 2005

I don't know about using the rap anchors up top for TR. They are fairly centered on the formation, if I remember correctly, and a fall could allow a big swing over the south face of the formation. Also, I didn't see any moves over 5.7. Nice route.

By Jason Shatek
Apr 7, 2005

Watched my climbing compadre TR this route, its more straight up and down than SW corner, more straight forward. From what I hear the moves ain't bad either.

By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 11, 2006
rating: 5.8

Excellent route that "feels" more safe than SW corner not that that route is bad. All the holds are there and the bolts are well placed. Don't worry about that featureless section up high, move right and its an easy romp to the top!!

By Blitzo
Sep 25, 2006

A good route!

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 22, 2006

It's been along time since I did this one. Repeated it yesterday and had a blast - what a fun route - don't know where the crux was, but didn't do any mantles. Melody Wong followed in Tevas (she doesn't recommend it) toting a huge SLR digital camera with a zoom lens.

I think this is a classic.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007

Fun, fun, fun! Be sure to walk the upper ledge with your hands, not your feet, so you can hang from the horn for that shameless photo op. ;-) And try it at night sometime!

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 13, 2010
rating: 5.8+

By marryellenman
From: Midvale, UT
Jan 4, 2011
rating: 5.9

Sweet, This was the best climb I did on my first trip to JT.

By Harrison Dreves
From: Nashville, TN
Feb 17, 2011

Anyone else get a sweet heelhook and campus move around the jug :)
Super fun to do at dusk!

By UpRope
Feb 18, 2011

An excellent JT classic and a very smooth lead.One to do again and again.Superb location.There's a photo in the old Wolfe/Dominick guidebook of someone climbing Headstone in tennis shoes in the 1950s.The FA of this formation was apparently accomplished by throwing a rope over the top and batmaning up.

By Canon
Nov 7, 2011

Awesome climb, great Cliffhanger photo op 2/3 of the way up. On top are two older bolts with ring hangers and three new metolius bolts with two chains. Bring webbing to extend the anchor for TRing this climb or SW corner.

By Brandon Bateman
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.8

This is a must-do climb for any level climber in j-tree.