Cryin' on the Corner
||Trad, 3 pitches, 380', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Tom Beck, Marc & Mary Rosenthal, Bob Goodwin, Julie Brenner|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||December through Feburary|
|Page Views: ||307|
|Submitted By: ||Thomas Beck on Jan 22, 2012|
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Takes the right hand side of the big alcove which has Get Up Stand Up. Begin on a white water polished slab. There is a trimmed back cats claw bush at the belay spot and you can't miss the line of bolts. Paddle up slick but not steep friction pitch on the rounded arete to chains at 120 ft - 12 bolts so well protected (off route bolt right of the anchors...I'll get around to removing it one day). Second pitch ascends the easy crack until you can pop out left onto the face. Clip a bolt and use some gear on the face to reach the chain anchor at 140 feet on a medium sized ledge. The climbing is about 5.6 but this pitch you would not want to fall off anywhere on lead. Pitch three ascends the up and left ramp (bolted), pulls the overhang on gear and you stem up a shallow groove to a ledge past a few...not many bolts. There I should have placed, but I didn't so you make some thin moves off the ledge to stand on a crimpy edge and clip the last bolt. You'll run into some exfoliation top of the third pitch so climb weight distributed. Run it to safer ground. Easy to set gear anchor at the summit. Descent is scramble climbers right around a bulge in the middle of the white slab and solo or short rope your way to the chains located under the bulge. A 70 m may get you down without incident. We always had two 60 m ropes. Alternately you can rap off Get Up Stand Up with a single 70 m. There are some projects in that area. Last pitch of your descent route is not finished. Please respect the first ascensionist's work in progress, but enjoy the first 2 pitches. There is a slick 5.10 section there which is tasty if hard friction suits your palate.
Cryin' On the Corner is the first line of "Harden Your Heart"; sung by Pat Benetar and Quarterflash.
Same general location and approach as
Get up Stand Up. You start about 150 ft right of that route on the left edge of the white slab. Please follow the climbers trail when you can find it. No cairns or ducks.
a couple smaller cams( metolius #1 #2 and #3, 1.5 friend, #5 green or black metoilus, #1 and #2 camalot, a couple bigger cams for the summit station...#3 friend size or slightly bigger. No wires; every placement is shallow and flared. Draws for the first pitch and 5 long slings for the last pitch to reduce rope drag