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Crybaby 

5.12c

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
FA: Tom Herbert
Submitted By: Tim Steele on Jan 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

This is a classic Herbert rig that follows a seam up an immaculate wall. The crux comes early and is just a few moves long (I’d guess about V4 or 5). If you boulder or know how to campus it’s bound to feel easy. But, you still have to have enough fitness to romp through some fun 5.11 at the top. Great route; very striking.


Protection 

7 bolts to closed shuts. yes, shuts. Needs mussy's fo' sho'.



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By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Jan 11, 2007
rating: 5.12c

Super classic, striking and follows a definite feature...not typical Gorge edge hauling. The crux is harder but doable for shorter folks.

By Choncho
Jul 20, 2010

Classic. Eases quickly.

By Drew Peterson
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.12c

Brand new mussy's up top.

By Drewsky
Jan 19, 2013

At the crux did other folks make a large move to the good edge from the good undercling and a crappy crimp to the right with right foot way up in a weird jam near the undercling? I'm short and that move felt way hard.

By Neil Rankin
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.12c

The crux is right off the bat and it is reach dependent. Even with long arms it's a hard couple of moves. Definitely harder than v4 (I'm talking to you Tim, you strong bastard). I think I remember a no-hands rest off of a butt scum up higher before the last steep section.