|362 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.8+ [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Layne Potter (alt leads) April 12th 2005|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Jun 1, 2008|
P.Ross on first pitch
This climb is a good introduction to the mid grade slab routes,as these routes are only 10 mins from the parking area.
P1).Follow the cracks passed two pro bolts to double anchors.150' 5.8+R.
P2)Straight up passed two more bolts to the crack at the top of the steep section. Above this an easier slab leads to top and double anchors.180. 5.8R.
Rap the route
Just left of the Wind storm Groove is two thin cracks. The climb starts up the right hand crack.
Friends. #1,to #3.5 and one #5
Layne on Pitch 2 Cry Wolf
|By Hazen Goodyear|
Oct 20, 2008
This is a Good route, just be prepared for fragile rock (I almost pulled a 20 lb block down on my belayer). The 1st pitch is a great slab problem with good (runout yes, but good) placements. The first half of the second pitch is also good but the second half is exposed and way runout on questionable gear. You come to a very searmery move about 20 feet above your last peace with is not so great. After that move you get a peace of mental pro (that would most definitely blow) and then another 20 or more feet of easy slab. All in all you get to the anchor and you are run at lest 20 feet to a peace that would blow and another 20 feet or more to another questionable peace (with a solid #5 a few feet under it).
Two other things, the 2nd pitch anchors are not visible for most of the pitch, just climb up the seam above the bulge. And you should bring warp rings and new webbing for repelling off the anchors.