Crusher Critter 5.9-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Greg Collins, Hernado Vera |
| Submitted By: | K Baumgartner on Sep 9, 2012 |
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Sweet, short pitch.
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Description Start up the short, right facing corner to gain a small ledge below the crack. Plug a few more pieces in the finger crack and then follow it up around the EXTREMELY loose, huge block (crux). This block is so loose it moved when I barely grazed it with my shoulder. You could very easily link Crusher and Crispy Critters into one long pitch without too much drag.
Location Old Man's traverse ledge about 10 feet above the Front C tree and about 35 feet directly below Crispy Critter. Belay from two small trees to the right of the route to stay out of the fall zone should the loose block give way.
Protection Small cams (Metolius TCU 01 to BD .5/1).
THE block.
| Placing pro before the crux around the block.
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| Comments on Crusher Critter |
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By K Baumgartner Sep 9, 2012
| Seconded this route last weekend with Andy. Led it this week and almost fell right around the block and noticed that my #1BD had walked back, which would have certainly led to an ankle breaking fall to the ledge. Good place about 1.5 feet above block helps protect the top out. Make sure the belayer is way to the right of the huge block should it come free. |
By Seth Murphy Sep 17, 2012
| While the block appears very insecure, it's not. Similar to the flexy flake on banana, the creaky hold on Ambush, etc.. Welcome to Seneca. |
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