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Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallowtail T 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

Crushed Velvet 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Aidan Maguire & Scott Bye, 1998
Page Views: 501
Submitted By: Ryan Nevius on Sep 17, 2013

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Start on Farley. Big knobs lead out of the crack and onto the face to the first bolt. For the first couple bolts, climb the sustained knobs while occasionally using the right arete to advance upward. Things get cruxy around the fourth bolt, as the knobs get smaller and less positive and the bolt spacing increases. After about 100', the angle of the slab decreases and friction becomes your best friend.


On the knobby face, directly left of Farley.


9 draws for each of the bolts, plus a few extendables for the first few gear placements. Single set of cams from 1"-3". Optional .6" cam (e.g. green alien or blue master cam) can be used high on the route in a horizontal.

Two bolt anchor with chains. From here, either join Farley to the summit, rap with TWO ropes straight to the ground, or do two single rope raps by using the Opus 7 anchor to the right of Farley (100' rap to here), or the Blue Velvet anchor (60' rap to here).

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