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 ADVANCED
George
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another for the Road S 
Bloody Mary T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Curious George S 
George T 
George Direct T 
George of the Jungle S 
Hello McFly S 
Last Call T 
Lounge Lizards P1 S 
Lounge Lizards P2/3 S 
Lounge Lizards Variation S 
Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack") T 
Unsorted Routes:

Crushed Velvet 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 375
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Sep 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Me after the steep hands/fists section.

Description 

A long, wide adventure on the far left side of George. From the belay atop the first pitch of Lounge Lizards, head left and then up to a steep hand and fist crack. Rest atop the steep part before enduring unpleasant offwidth climbing to the top.

There's some loose stuff on the lower half of the pitch, so climb gingerly.

Location 

You can either scramble up from the left to the Lounge Lizards pitch 1 belay or climb Lounge Lizards or George Direct. It's the next climbable crack system to the left of Lounge Lizards pitch 2.

Protection 

Singles of cams from hands to #6. Maybe a finger-sized piece.


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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Sep 23, 2010

This is old school 5.7. It's pretty hard, significantly harder than Bloody Mary. The rock at the first steep section isn't very good and didn't make for very inspiring placements. I didn't take a #6 with me on the pitch but it would have been great to have at the top. It was worth doing the route once, but I probably won't be back. We rappelled down with a single 70m rope. I think a 60 would be cutting it pretty close, though you could rappel down from the top of the route to the belay of the second pitch of Lounge Lizards.
By Darren Knezek
Sep 23, 2010

There's another 5.6 about 5 feet to the left of this one from the early 70's. Pretty fun, used to have an old piton on it. Probably still there. Just telling you this, so you have another route to do!
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Sep 23, 2010

Sweet. I was actually going to ask you about that line! Does it have a name? It's on the list for the immediate future.
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Sep 28, 2010

This one's tougher than it looks and requires some thought at the crux.

There's a giant flake in the middle of the climb that has what feels like a crucial hold, but the flake is really hollow and might come off if a heavier person put all their weight on it, which would probably result in rope cutting, shin breaking disaster, so be careful.