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Crusade.  T 
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Crusade.  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1320', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Ross Andy Ross (Alt Leads) Nov 27th 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 881
Submitted By: USBRIT on Dec 2, 2011

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Paul starting the 200' Holy Slab

Description 

Located from the Two Fingers Canyon, about 15mins walk north from road end. See topo photo.
A classic adventure Reef slab climb with interesting formations and splendid views down the lenth of the Reef. Climbed on sight ground up. Starts at the low point in the V slab between the two waves. A black streak of runs down the slab to the right of the start.

P1).Climb directly up the slab past a cam placement to the first bolt at about 30'.Continue past one more bolt to double anchors. 150' 5.7.
P2)Trend up left to a bulge (crux). Follow a total of seven bolts and one 3" cam to double anchors.160'5.9.
P3)Climb up left to a bolt then up the blunt ridge right of the cleft. At its top move right then left to a ledge with double anchors. 150'5.6.
P4)Climb the open slab directly above the belay past one bolt at about mid hight to reach the great ledge system below the upper face.200'5.6.
P5)Straight ahead is a massive chasm .Wander up the whaleback ridges to the right/north for about 400' to reach the top of the chasm and the start of the Holy War slab.
P6)A single bolt to the right of the slab gives protection to down climb to the foot of the holy slab and double anchors.60'5.4.
P7)Follow 5 bolts up the impressive holy slab around various holes and at times using a crystal vain to double anchors at its top.200'5.8.
Register under cairn behind belay.Scramble right to reach the spectactular summit ridge and great views.

Descent:- Rap the route to to anchors at the top of pitch 3 .From here one long 200' rap trending right (south)one can reach the top of the wave below the cleft of P3.


Location 

From the road end at Two Fingers Canyon. Hike north for about 15 mins to the tree filled gully that leads to the slab just left of the black streak. See topo photo.


Protection 

A few cams 1/2" to 3.5" Slings,Two 60m ropes. Remember to be on the safe side carrying a small bolt kit on these long climbs in case off route happens.... might be useful.



Photos of Crusade. Slideshow Add Photo
View north along the Reef.The pale and dark brown stripes is the "1000'of Fun" area in Three Fingers Canyon
View north along the Reef.The pale and dark brown ...
On the summit ridge. Photo A.Ross
On the summit ridge. Photo A.Ross
Andy on the Holy Slab
Andy on the Holy Slab
Paul starting P3
Paul starting P3
Andy on the crux section
Andy on the crux section
Its chilly in November. Early morning tea.
Its chilly in November. Early morning tea.
Holy Slab
Holy Slab
Paul starting P1
Paul starting P1
Andy following P1
Andy following P1
A) Crusade. 5.9 .
BETA PHOTO: A) Crusade. 5.9 .
Andy top of P3
Andy top of P3
Andy on P4
Andy on P4
Looking down P4
Looking down P4
Onward to the Summit Ridge!
Onward to the Summit Ridge!
View from the ridge to the La Sal mountains above Moab
View from the ridge to the La Sal mountains above ...
Looking down south from the summit ridge. Note trucks parked near Two Fingers Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down south from the summit ridge. Note tru...
Heading up the Great ledge system towards the Holy War slab.
Heading up the Great ledge system towards the Holy...
Andy descending to the belay of the Holy slab.
Andy descending to the belay of the Holy slab.
Start of the routes from the Two Fingers road end. <br />A)Rememberance Day.950' 5.9. <br />B)Feet First 310' 5.9  <br />C)Crusade 1310' 5.9.
BETA PHOTO: Start of the routes from the Two Fingers road end....
Andy at the belay below the 200'final pitch.
Andy at the belay below the 200'final pitch.
Homeward Bound...
Homeward Bound...
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