|Type: ||Trad, 7 pitches, 1320', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross Andy Ross (Alt Leads) Nov 27th 2011|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||866|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Dec 2, 2011|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
Paul starting the 200' Holy Slab
Located from the Two Fingers Canyon, about 15mins walk north from road end. See topo photo.
A classic adventure Reef slab climb with interesting formations and splendid views down the lenth of the Reef. Climbed on sight ground up. Starts at the low point in the V slab between the two waves. A black streak of runs down the slab to the right of the start.
P1).Climb directly up the slab past a cam placement to the first bolt at about 30'.Continue past one more bolt to double anchors. 150' 5.7.
P2)Trend up left to a bulge (crux). Follow a total of seven bolts and one 3" cam to double anchors.160'5.9.
P3)Climb up left to a bolt then up the blunt ridge right of the cleft. At its top move right then left to a ledge with double anchors. 150'5.6.
P4)Climb the open slab directly above the belay past one bolt at about mid hight to reach the great ledge system below the upper face.200'5.6.
P5)Straight ahead is a massive chasm .Wander up the whaleback ridges to the right/north for about 400' to reach the top of the chasm and the start of the Holy War slab.
P6)A single bolt to the right of the slab gives protection to down climb to the foot of the holy slab and double anchors.60'5.4.
P7)Follow 5 bolts up the impressive holy slab around various holes and at times using a crystal vain to double anchors at its top.200'5.8.
Register under cairn behind belay.Scramble right to reach the spectactular summit ridge and great views.
Descent:- Rap the route to to anchors at the top of pitch 3 .From here one long 200' rap trending right (south)one can reach the top of the wave below the cleft of P3.
From the road end at Two Fingers Canyon. Hike north for about 15 mins to the tree filled gully that leads to the slab just left of the black streak. See topo photo.
A few cams 1/2" to 3.5" Slings,Two 60m ropes. Remember to be on the safe side carrying a small bolt kit on these long climbs in case off route happens.... might be useful.