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Trying to figure out the short mans way to get pas...
Directly off of Lunch Rock is this classic, moderate multi-pitch, bolt-up. Begins with one of the easiest single rope lengths in the area (so far anyways). This first pitch is also the approach to several other harder multi-pitch routes on the upper face including, "Offspring" and "Baby Face".
The first pitch can be done single pitch style with 8-10 draws to a lower off, checking in at 5.9. For a lot of folks this is their first introduction to Eagle Peak Climbing. The second pitch traverses to the right, at 5.9, to gain easier ground. Eventually joining the top of the route "The Pod" before going vertical again for 3 more pitches. The remaining pitches ring in at 10a, 10c and 10b taking the route to the top. All belays are bolted.
Pitch 1: 5.9. A really nice cruise up some stone that has cleaned up amazingly. Head directly up from Lunch Rock following bolts to a ledge with a small bush and anchors. A popular single pitch outing and perhaps thats why this pitch has cleaned up so nicely. 70 feet.
Pitch 2: 5.9 "The Hand Traverse". This pitch traverses hard right above a feature that looks strikingly like a hand from afar. Climb engaging rock about 100 feet to the right over the top of several single pitch routes that start from the base. You will pass several anchors ( For the routes "Ring Finger", "Dedo Grande", and "The Pod") and could stop almost anywhere and belay. I recommend continuing all the way until you have to make a few moves vertically (crux) to reach the anchors for the route "The Pod". You will be perched at a nice small ledge at the base of a short right facing corner on the left side of the belay. 130 feet.
Pitch 3: 10a. Stem up the corner off the belay (crux) move right out onto easier ground and follow easy climbing up to a belay on a good sized ledge about 50 feet below the large roof looming above you. 75 feet.
Pitch 4: 10c "The Roof Traverse". Stem up the corner off the belay and reach the left side of the large roof. Climb right out onto the face under the roof and solve the tricky slab crux (hint: there are some hidden holds). Then climb into the corner formed at the right side of the roof (long slings useful to prevent rope drag) and make a long rightward traverse across the face heading to a common anchor in a small alcove about 30 feet right of the terminus of the roof. 120 feet.
Pitch 5: 10b or 10c. Two options are presented for the final pitch and both join each other at a left facing corner/ramp system that takes you to the top of the wall (I've only climbed the left 10c variation so I'll give that description). The left 10c variation moves left from the belay out onto the face for a move then gains a small left facing corner. Follow this using the corner for your right hand to a crux finger crack formed where the corner ends. At the end of the finger crack traverse a slab to your right where the route joins the alternate pitch at a large left facing corner, just to the right of a roof. Climb into the corner and up to hidden jugs over the top of a ramp/corner system. Climb out onto this ramp and scramble up to anchors on a block at the top of the wall. 80 feet.
Directly in front of the large flat boulder at the base of the wall, called Lunch Rock. Lower off of anchors at the top of pitch one or continue for 4 more pitches to the top of the crag.
BETA PHOTO: Traverse right and up the roof (crux) of pitch 3, ...
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 29, 2011
The traverse pitch was a little tricky, it literally goes right immediately off the belay, don't try to go up and right (which also looks possible if you miss the first bolt, which I did).
From: San Diego CA
Feb 24, 2014
The 4th pitch is one of the best pitches I have climbed in San Diego. I have done both variation on the last pitch and I think the left 10c one is the best.
The anchor for the last pitch pretty far past the ledge. Usually I use my end of the climbing rope to make a extra long anchor using clove hitches to get it over the edge.
You can also skip the first two 5.9 pitches by climbing Ring Finger (5.10 a/b) and just cut out right once you get to the traverse ledge. A fun variation that makes the climb a little bit shorter and sweeter.
Feb 17, 2016
Gave this a try on Feburary 14th before the closure and had issues with pitch 3. After exiting the arete onto the face followed the bolts up and found it harder than 5.10a, and way harder than the stemming section. Ended up at a set of rap rings that were around the corner left of the seam that leads to the roof so I may have accidentally moved onto another route. At that point the heat was getting to us pretty hard and being thoroughly intimidated we rapped down and hiked out.