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Millbrook
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Cruise Control T 
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Westward Ha! T 

Cruise Control 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rich Romano, Bea Haworth 1978
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: Carl A on Jun 2, 2013

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Partially closed.

Description 

Start 30 feet right of Westward Ha! on discontinuous left-facing corners and cracks beneath two small roofs.

P1: Head up towards the crack in the middle part of the upper small roof, with a stemmy, technical crux over an old piece of tat. Traverse out right under the roof and up and over to belay in the right-facing corner.

P2: Head up the corner through some foliage, and break left on to the face when you can, on face holds through a small roof on a bunch of semi-loose blocks.

The second pitch is 5.8ish and has killer exposure, the first pitch climbing is excellent and technical.

Location 

Rappel left of Westward Ha! and go right a short bit along the death ledge.

Protection 

Standard gunks rack is fine. I used doubles in larger finger size cams


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By Michal Pasniewski
May 12, 2014

2 #2 BDs are useful. Small cams (0, 00) make the 5.9 pitch G. Direct clean line, topout at the backpacks - 4 stars!
By gtluke
Nov 3, 2014

I was able to build a gear anchor at the topout of cruise control and rap in. At the bottom I had my buddy put me on belay from the top and pull me up. Improvised top rope but the climb is super straight and didn't require any directionals and was great to do it this way. Good way to get your beta if you are hesitant about leading this.