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Millbrook
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Westward Ha! T 

Cruise Control 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rich Romano, Bea Haworth 1978
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Carl A on Jun 2, 2013

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Partially closed.

Description 

Start 30 feet right of Westward Ha! on discontinuous left-facing corners and cracks beneath two small roofs.

P1: Head up towards the crack in the middle part of the upper small roof, with a stemmy, technical crux over an old piece of tat. Traverse out right under the roof and up and over to belay in the right-facing corner.

P2: Head up the corner through some foliage, and break left on to the face when you can, on face holds through a small roof on a bunch of semi-loose blocks.

The second pitch is 5.8ish and has killer exposure, the first pitch climbing is excellent and technical.


Location 

Rappel left of Westward Ha! and go right a short bit along the death ledge.


Protection 

Standard gunks rack is fine. I used doubles in larger finger size cams



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By Michal Pasniewski
May 12, 2014

2 #2 BDs are useful. Small cams (0, 00) make the 5.9 pitch G. Direct clean line, topout at the backpacks - 4 stars!