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Cruel Shoes 
Dykes of Gastonia 
Poly-Stick-Em 

Cruel Shoes 

5.7

   
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Type: Sport, 3 pitches
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
FA: unknown
Submitted By: John Bradford on Sep 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Leading Cruel Shoes on Stripe Rock

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Description 

A fun and easier multi pitch route that does top out. 3 pitches, with the option to do one or all, though rapping from any of the belay stations will take two ropes. The rating on the first pitch is 5.6, though it feels harder. It is all bolts, take 16-20 quickdraws. The descent is to the left then down a westward tending ramp to a single double rope rappell.


Protection 

All Bolts, with two bolt belays.



Photos of Cruel Shoes Slideshow Add Photo
Leading P2 of Cruel Shoes

Leading P2 of Cruel Shoes

Climber midway on P3.

Climber midway on P3.

Cruel Shoes

Cruel Shoes


Comments on Cruel Shoes Add Comment
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By Jake Richens
From: Sl, ut
Oct 24, 2005
rating: 5.7

make sure to bring two ropes to decend the route. Pitch 1 is exactly 30 meters(you have to be in the corner) Pitch two is about 22, Pitch 3 is about 40. The climb is easy, but not as easy as theatre of shawdows. You will also want to scream and holla to listen to the echo's off of this massive dome and the tahitian wall/white wall, grey wall and the great wall.

By Dylan Kuhn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 16, 2006

I found the first pitch to be the best and hardest. My wife swung leads with me for the first time on this route - the regular bolts gave her confidence. We rapped Poly-Stick-Em with a single rope as Tony suggests.

By ashcan
Oct 8, 2007
rating: 5.7

Safe and P1 and P2 are classic for an all bolted route in the 5.7 grade.

By Adam Wilson
From: Provo, UT
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.7

Rap poly-stick-um, 4 raps with a 60m, be careful on the first two raps. Fun route!

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.7

first and second pitch can be combined with a 60 meter rope. 2 full rope raps get you to the bottom if you go down that 10a slab route.

By Mattcbh
Oct 3, 2009
rating: 5.7

Really fun. Second pitch was really short. Might be able to combine 1 and 2, but would have to use sligns or deal with a lot of rope drag. I think the guide book stated the first pitch was 5.6 and the third pitch was 5.7, but I felt the third was the easiest.

By zoso
Oct 4, 2009

Try climbing it simul @ night. Best way imo-no crowds.

By Rick Casey
Jun 28, 2010

Absolutely stellar route for the grade! It is rare to find a bolted route this long at this grade that is so consistent in difficulty. I agree with other comments that pitch 1 is hardest, pitch 2 is shortest, and pitch 3 is easiest. We rapped the route by rapping from the 3rd belay station straight down to the 2nd belay station, then from there to the ground, with about 20' to spare on double 60m ropes. Love those chickenheads!

By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Oct 10, 2011

It is possible to rappel off the back of this route with a single 70m rope in one rap if, once you gain the top, you head left and then back right down the obvious ramp. Take the ramp until it run outs (a bit precarious at the end, so watch your step) at a pair of cold shuts. With rope stretch, a single rap with the 70 places you 2 feet above the ground, at which point you can untie your safety knots (always tie these!) and reach the ground safely. The second just needs to be careful to rappel the bottom slowly, or have the first re-tie the knots. But, this way, you can climb the route with 1 rope and do only 1 rap (nice).

By Kevin Chuba
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 12, 2012

Great route to warm up on first thing in the morning. The hike to the base gets the blood flowing, yah. We simul climbed this great feature. Pretty sure I had about 32 quikdraws in total. Some extendable slings can help with the rope drag at the start. Had to run out a few bolts near the top so I recommend bringing a few more draws. If you and your partner have a packed i suggest to climb simul. We were up and down before the next crew made it to the top of P1.

Great climb to learn how to multipitch. Belay, rope managment, swapping leads, ect.