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Black Corridor
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Unsorted Routes:

Crude Control 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steagall et al
Page Views: 1,555
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: Bouldery start to Crude Control. Easily cheated by...

Description 

Really kind of a bomb because of its contrived nature, not because of the rock. Beginning right of Vagabonds (but left of the boulders that separate the corridor) this route starts up a short steep section involving a move from a digit hold to a shelf above. Can be easily cheated by just reaching right for a ramp and climbing via that. Two bolts protect the crux, with 5 more to the anchors.


Protection 

Bolts.



Photos of Crude Control Slideshow Add Photo
throwing the only difficult move of the climb--from the overhanging face to a big jug around the right side.  Crude Control in the Black Corridor at Red Rocks
BETA PHOTO: throwing the only difficult move of the climb--fro...
Comments on Crude Control Add Comment
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By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
May 17, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a gimme 5.12. More like a boulder problem at the bottom followed by a bunch of 5.8/9 climbing.

MM

By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 12, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Agreed with Matt.. It's a V3/4 into a 5.9 face climb.

By Tara Reynvaan
From: Bend, OR
Jan 20, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Pretty much a gimme but with one fun move and interesting holds. It would be cool if the pockets continued throughout the climb.

By EFS
Jul 25, 2012

my first 12, and onsight. i think i dyno'd the first move to a sloper on a small ledge??? (this is back in 1994) i was having a great day after almost a week of an ingrown toenail giving me grief that killed any climbing i had to do small footwork on. the hotsprings near bishop fixed that....... everything felt easy and i had no clue i was on the right route because the first moves felt simple and the rest of the climb easy and uneventful.......