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Old New Place
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
4-Star Arete TR 
Bee Sting T,TR 
Berserker T,TR 
Crucifriction TR 
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 
Gulf Stream T,TR 
High Roof Left T,TR 
High Roof Right T,TR 
Jet Stream T,TR 
Momentum T,TR 
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 
Route 10 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 7 T,TR 
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 
Songs of Love TR 
Tetherball T,TR 
Total Abstinence T,TR 


YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jamie Hamilton
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 343
Submitted By: jamie Hamilton on Feb 20, 2011

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Climb the interesting sculpted double dihedral. The route has some wild palming moves about 15 feet up. Exiting the dihedral one can go up the arete above to make a harder end or join bee sting. The moves seem very unlikely at first but reveal themselves as you get more creative. The grade might be off. I have a hard time knowing how to grade this sort of climbing.


The double open book between route 3 and 4


top rope

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