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Crown Royal 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Petch
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006
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Description 

This route starts up thin dikes on the face 25' right of Sinbad-Herbert. A few bolts to the roof crux, pull the roof and continue on .8 climbing to the anchor, which is shared with the Sinbad-Herbert. To descend, you need 2 60m ropes to rap, 1 70m to rap to the SH intermediate anchor, or you can traverse to the Groove anchor or top it out at 5.6R.


Location 

40' right of crud gully, 25' right of Sinbad Herbert. Continue up another 30' or so to get to the Groove.


Protection 

8 or 9 lead bolts plus an optional knob tieoff to a two bolt anchor. Please note this should not be considered a sport climb.



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By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jun 21, 2010

2 words, choss pile. This route is unsafe and should not have been bolted. A hold (mandatory rotten flake above the bolt) blew out on my partner while pulling the roof and sent him airborne. Another hold blew out on me.

By ShaunG
From: Petaluma/SF, CA
Jun 21, 2010

Flakes over the roof are coming off. Avoid unless you want some excitement.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 23, 2010

My bad fellas, I shouldn't have steered you to this one. For some reason I thought you looked like you might know how to climb and could handle a route that hasn't been buffed out by thousands of ascents. Thanks for doing your part to clean it up though, and steer clear of the obscurities and the green routes in the future and you'll be fine.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jun 23, 2010

That Caughtinside guy is a real jerk!

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Sep 3, 2010

One star for Crown Royal? Blasphemy!

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Aug 13, 2011

Went back and did this one again last week, I was curious to see how Mark and Shaun's cleaning efforts changed the climbing.

I'm pleased to report that the route climbs great, the holds may be bigger now. There is a big orange scar up and left of the crux, but the crux goes on big sidepulls and flakes.

Remember, climbing loose rock is a skill. Be deliberate, be delicate, pull down not out, and if you don't like to climb choss stick to the routes in the supertopo guide.

By BrianWS
May 16, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

Good route with fun movement throughout. Neat roof crux followed by fun dyke hiking with well spaced bolts above. Not nearly as height dependent and feels much easier then the 2nd pitch of S. Herbert.
The rock looks fragile under the roof but is surprisingly solid -- the rock just above requires caution, though. Tread lightly, tap the flakes, and put a helmet on your belay.