Crown Royal 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Petch |
| Submitted By: | caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006 |
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311.
Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map
Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route starts up thin dikes on the face 25' right of Sinbad-Herbert. A few bolts to the roof crux, pull the roof and continue on .8 climbing to the anchor, which is shared with the Sinbad-Herbert. To descend, you need 2 60m ropes to rap, 1 70m to rap to the SH intermediate anchor, or you can traverse to the Groove anchor or top it out at 5.6R.
Location 40' right of crud gully, 25' right of Sinbad Herbert. Continue up another 30' or so to get to the Groove.
Protection 8 or 9 lead bolts plus an optional knob tieoff to a two bolt anchor. Please note this should not be considered a sport climb.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jun 21, 2010
| 2 words, choss pile. This route is unsafe and should not have been bolted. A hold (mandatory rotten flake above the bolt) blew out on my partner while pulling the roof and sent him airborne. Another hold blew out on me. |
By ShaunG
From: Novato/SF, CA
Jun 21, 2010
| Flakes over the roof are coming off. Avoid unless you want some excitement. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 23, 2010
| My bad fellas, I shouldn't have steered you to this one. For some reason I thought you looked like you might know how to climb and could handle a route that hasn't been buffed out by thousands of ascents. Thanks for doing your part to clean it up though, and steer clear of the obscurities and the green routes in the future and you'll be fine. |
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jun 23, 2010
| That Caughtinside guy is a real jerk! |
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Sep 3, 2010
| One star for Crown Royal? Blasphemy! |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Aug 13, 2011
| Went back and did this one again last week, I was curious to see how Mark and Shaun's cleaning efforts changed the climbing.
I'm pleased to report that the route climbs great, the holds may be bigger now. There is a big orange scar up and left of the crux, but the crux goes on big sidepulls and flakes.
Remember, climbing loose rock is a skill. Be deliberate, be delicate, pull down not out, and if you don't like to climb choss stick to the routes in the supertopo guide. |
By BrianWS
6 days ago
rating: 5.10+ PG13
| Good route with fun movement throughout. Neat roof crux followed by fun dyke hiking with well spaced bolts above. Not nearly as height dependent and feels much easier then the 2nd pitch of S. Herbert.
The rock looks fragile under the roof but is surprisingly solid -- the rock just above requires caution, though. Tread lightly, tap the flakes, and put a helmet on your belay. |
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