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Balcony Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brutus TR 
Crown Of Thorns T,TR 
Gold Medallist T,TR 
J. Wellington Wimpy TR 
Popeye's T,TR 
Popeye's Left T,TR 
Thumb Press T,TR 
Thumb Press Right T,TR 
Train Song TR 

Crown Of Thorns 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 364
Submitted By: Phil Westcott on Mar 18, 2012

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Crown of Thorns.

Description 

Layback the crack in the corner, then work your way up rounded ledges, aiming for the large, detached block above. Chimney behind the block a few moves, then aim left up the left-facing overhanging segment to the broad notch at the top, putting you on a large ledge with bushes. A variant start climbs the outside arete of the corner (5.7-ish) to a ramp, after which you maneuver to rejoin the main route. Many other variations exist by climbing pretty much anywhere up the face.

Location 

Inside corner system 20' to the right of Cliff Monster.

Protection 

On lead this will welcome a full range of gear. Small nut placements are popular, but also room for a hex or #3 & #4 Camalot. One bolt and great one inch crack at top for anchor.


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Ben on Top-rope.
Ben on Top-rope.

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By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
May 25, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun climbing for the entire 80'. 15' climbers left of the lone rusted bolt at the top is the ideal spot for gear placements for a natural anchor.
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