Crown Jewels 

I used a #4 nut to protect myself from decking before clipping the bolt (3/8"). The moves past the bolt are harder than 5.7, although I didn't move to the right as suggested.

This is a pretty decent route. You definitely shouldn't go over to the gully to the right as you'd miss the business of the route.

It's my understanding, however, that something has broken off of this route, which is why it seems very hard for 5.7 :)

Felt like 5.9 to me and I've heard the same from a couple of others... like I said apparently the route has changed.

I agree!

I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks this is a total sandbag at 5.7 -- I tried it as one of my first leads a couple of years ago, and got totally spanked trying to get past the first bolt (of course, right after I finally gave up, some 12-year-old kid flew right up it, but that's JT for ya'). 5.9 sounds about right.

We did this route yesterday as a warm-up! It's definitely a nine going by the bolt.

Getting past the first bolt is NOT 5.7 by any stretch of the imagination. Good thing that it is well protected at that point. The rest of the route is 5.7 or easier. And very varied.

The route goes all the way to the top, and can be done as a single long route. Just go past the ledge, up the following double crack, over the dyke, and up the face past 3 more bolts. The walkdown is not too bad.

A key hold has broken. It hasn't been 5.7 for several years

A fun two-pitch outing that is worth doing if in the area. The FA of this was John Wolfe, which was discovered when replacing the original bolts on this route - the home-made hangers were stamped JCW.

Concur on it not being a 5.7! Its there, but, thin.
Got a great DMM peanut stopper prior to the bolt. Seemed bomber.

Glad to see this listed as a 5.9 here; the crux definitely felt harder than the 5.7 in the old Vogel guidebook. The crux is definitely the moves around the bolt. The crimps are solid but small and sharp and smearing is the way to go. The move from the undercling to the upper seam is a fun little section!

Any beta on the descent? We ended up walking off the back (north/northeast) side.

While it is certainly possible that John Wolfe did the FA, it is odd that he did not include this route in his 1979 guidebook.

Randy - not odd if it was done after the info for the guide was sent to the printers.