Crowd Pleaser V2
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| Type: | Boulder, 25 feet |
| Consensus: | V2-3 [details] |
| FA: | John Yablonski |
| Submitted By: | Chris Owen on Oct 15, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Crowd Pleaser
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Description An aptly named classic and Stoney's best V2. Cool moves up the edge of the boulder, then right and up to a great flake. Suck up and go for the knob, now that you're committed; pull up and squirm over the top. There's a convoluted history: Original name was "Yabo Roof" - Crowd Pleaser was the left start variation of Crystal Ball Mantle avoiding the jump and body english of that route, heading up the arete then traversing right onto the ball (as shown on the front cover of the original SP Guide). Crystal Ball Mantle was left of Pliers, now renamed Real Crystal Ball Mantle - don't know the original name of the current CBM - confused anyone? Video here.
Location NE arete of Turlock
Protection None - boulder problem
Rocket scientist Andy Stone hangs out on the knob.
| Eric Murray on Crowd Pleaser.
| Geoff Kinsey and the Outland crew
| Mike Newheart heads up the arete...
| Geoff falls from the lip!
| nick leprohon sending
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| Comments on Crowd Pleaser |
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By SAL From: broomdigiddy Jan 14, 2008
| v2??? really? Well I will call that a very proud v2. i guess that makes crystal ball around v2 + :) I would say its a solid v3. shorter folks may pull it at v4ish. |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Jan 18, 2008
| Yes - the reach for the knob on the lip could be harder for short people. |
By Tristan B From: La Crescenta, CA Nov 19, 2010
| I went to Stoney last night and someone broke one of the holds off at thr top. Prolly from climbing too soon after the rain. |
By Rob Gordon From: Hollywood, CA Dec 5, 2010 rating: V3 PG13
| I noticed that yesterday too Tristan. Not only did a hold break... I'm pretty sure it's the bomber foot you rock over on. Whoever broke it probably took a good fall. I think the right hand knob looks like it might have lost a bit too. On the bright side it's a whole new problem to send! |
By Rob Gordon From: Hollywood, CA Dec 11, 2010 rating: V3 PG13
| Resent today. Footwork is a bit more technical. Could use a brush. The knob has to be crowned and liebacked more. Maybe gets V3 now. Delicate. |
By rorschah Jan 17, 2011
| I was there when it broke. It hadn't rained in a long time. A bunch of us were flailing on the last few moves, and a few experienced old hands were doing it to show us how to do it. One of the Old Sick Crew sent it, and then stopped and went back - he'd felt that foot quiver under him as he sent. It seemed really loose. There were like 25 climbers hanging around there, a lot of locals, a lot of Old Timers. There was a quick shouted consult between a bunch of the Old Timers about whether or not they should leave the foot there, about to go, or try to break it off. General agreement: if they left it shaky, somebody might hurt themselves *really* badly pretty soon. "Break it off" they said. "Or at least see how firm it is." He gave it a decent poke and the thing fell off. There was a long quiet moment. Somebody said, "A piece of history, dude. A piece of history." Then one of the kids who was showing us how to send it sent it again, and was like, "It's a little bit harder now. A little more balancy. But it's fine." |
By Ariana Apr 5, 2011
| The big knob broke off.. |
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