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Crowbar Cowboy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Deaun Schovajsa and Dave Gottenborg, circa 1994.
Page Views: 1,045
Submitted By: David Houston on Mar 10, 2002
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Doug going right at the roof for the mellower but ...

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Description 

This route follows the blocky arete with a clean triangular roof about 2/3 of the way up. Just left of the Crack & Face/Widespread Shelfishness face at left fringe of the Hot Spot area near the Winterfest Wall. I like this route better than the quality ratings in the guidebooks would indicate. Follow rounded holds on the right side of the arete up to the ledge below the roof or up the left side of the arete transitioning to a short slab on thin exfoliation holds to the same ledge. Clip the bolt under the roof with a long draw or runner to avoid rope drag above and take the wild swing out right and mantel up on to the slab (5.9) or crank straight over the roof (5.11a). Good footwork will pay high dividends on the roof move. In either case, finish up the easier arete above on thin face holds to the anchors (#154 in Hubbel, #28 in Rolofson).


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



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By Deaun Schovajsa
Nov 26, 2008

The correct name is Crowbar Cowboy and FA was Deaun Schovajsa and Dave Gottenborg, circa 1994.