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Starting about 20' right of "Effigy Too" 5.10a, stem and chimney up between the main wall and a large block. Clip the first bolt and cast off onto the steep face. A nice mix of black dikes, crimps, pinches, jugs and slopers take one past two more bolts and a short leftward traverse to the ledge/top. Gear belay.
About 20' right of the obvious crack line Effigy Too
. Descend down a chimney on the backside of the wall, same as for the other routes.
3 bolts (3/8"), gear to 2" for anchor.
By C Miller
Feb 5, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This climb is aka "Pinch a Smelly Ranger" and originally had a fixed pin down low to protect a more direct start (5.11+).