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Crossover 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 330'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Bryan G on Jan 20, 2013
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Top of the first pitch of Crossover.
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Crossover is a two pitch variation to Color Me Gone. It ascends the left side of the "pillar" where Color Me Gone (P1) climbs the right side. I thought the first pitch was worth doing, but CMG is the better line by far.

Pitch 1 (5.8) - Start on a large grassy terrace directly beneath Machine Gun Jubblies. Make a rising traverse to the right to join the left-facing corner. The start is runout but sub-5.6 climbing. At a steeper section in the corner, where the climbing gets harder, you will get your first pro but it's quite a reachy placement. I hitched two stoppers together to reach the higher and better constriction. From here climb up the arete and then back left into the corner. Follow the corner to a bolted anchor shared with the first pitch of Color Me Gone.

A second pitch (5.9) traverses to the right and I think it goes up a shallow right facing corner with a filthy black streak down the right-hand wall. This pitch looked significantly harder than the first and I backed off of it for want of more gear. Bring a good selection of small wires and micro cams for this one!

Descend by rappelling the route with two ropes.


Protection 

Pro to 2" with extra small stuff.



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By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 28, 2013

There is/was a pin for protection before the mentioned hard to reach stopper. Also if you start the pitch a bit further right and approach it more directly there are more protection opportunities.