Crossover 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 330 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Bryan G on Jan 20, 2013 |
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Top of the first pitch of Crossover.
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Crossover is a two pitch variation to Color Me Gone. It ascends the left side of the "pillar" where Color Me Gone (P1) climbs the right side. I thought the first pitch was worth doing, but CMG is the better line by far. Pitch 1 (5.8) - Start on a large grassy terrace directly beneath Machine Gun Jubblies. Make a rising traverse to the right to join the left-facing corner. The start is runout but sub-5.6 climbing. At a steeper section in the corner, where the climbing gets harder, you will get your first pro but it's quite a reachy placement. I hitched two stoppers together to reach the higher and better constriction. From here climb up the arete and then back left into the corner. Follow the corner to a bolted anchor shared with the first pitch of Color Me Gone. A second pitch (5.9) traverses to the right and I think it goes up a shallow right facing corner with a filthy black streak down the right-hand wall. This pitch looked significantly harder than the first and I backed off of it for want of more gear. Bring a good selection of small wires and micro cams for this one! Descend by rappelling the route with two ropes.
Protection Pro to 2" with extra small stuff.
By Jeff Scheuerell Mar 28, 2013
| There is/was a pin for protection before the mentioned hard to reach stopper. Also if you start the pitch a bit further right and approach it more directly there are more protection opportunities. |
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