||Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'
|Consensus: ||WI4-5 [details]|
|Page Views: ||422|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Feb 15, 2004|
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This is one a handful of routes in the Ouray Ice Park on which you get to climb both sides of the Uncompaghre Gorge. Find this climb just upstream from the lower bridge. It has a 2 bolt anchor just above. Drop down over the big pipe. There are bits of metal protruding from the ice just to the L of the top as you descend.
First you get to climb the E side of the gorge on ice to a great ledge about 15 ft up. Then fire up the near vertical, free-standing pillar which spills from the W side of the gorge. Then move up lower-angled, if more hollow, ice as you go to the top. Just before the finish, the ice can be quite rotten as it bakes in the sun. Neat. 100ft.
Behind this pillar is a very steep, bolted, mixed line called Wildebeast at M9. Whoa! Sort of reminiscent of climbing up Calypso & looking up L to the Salvation roof. How the heck....
There are 2 bolts just above.