Crossing Over 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 130 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Mark & Louise Sargent June 2009 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Mark Sgt on Aug 16, 2009 |
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Description Who will be the first to cross over the edge?
Start is 8 feet upslope from the white quartzite belay table as Lifeline. Warning: this climb has great potential for rope drag. A perfect route for double ropes or use single length slings on the lower half of the route. Lifeline comes close to Crossing Over about 50 feet up, don’t continue up into the right facing small notch of Lifeline instead traverse out right on Crossing Over. Clip bolts following the contour of the arête that steps right then up to anchor. 16 bolts total on route. 28 meter rap down over arête to Climbers Choice Wall. Please remember there may be climbers below on Climbers Choice Wall so yell and give a chance for a response. Tie a knot at the end of your ropes. 40-45 meters
Location Start at the same white quartzite belay table as Lifeline. Originally the climb was done by traversing left 10 feet, then up right in the wide crack but the crack is a little wide and trashy so we soon added a face start just 8 feet upslope from the stone belay table. Clip bolt initial grey bolt, move upleft to bolts on face.
Protection 16 draws. Use longer slings at bottom to help reduce rope drag.
| Comments on Crossing Over |
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By Dave Borba
Aug 27, 2009
| Super fun sustained climbing with nice exposure while "crossing over"! Like the discriptions says, rope drag is an issue epsecially with short draws. Bring slings, and have fun, the amount of sustained climbing ending with a single rope rapel is worth draggin' the rope up for. |
By Dave Budge
From: Wasangeles
Jan 17, 2010
| About half of the bolts have been replaced, with good gear in between. Bring a standard rack.
CAUTION: watch for a loose death block just below the anchors. The anchors themselves are located in a suspect chunk of rock. |
By taranaki
Jul 20, 2010
| This is a fun climb, and one of only two remaining routes we could find on this wall whose bolts haven't been cut.
One thing to note is that you'll need a 70m rope if you want to top rope this climb, and collecting you gear on rappel is non-trivial. |
By cragsavvy
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 25, 2010
| Very fun with exposure. Well protected, by far the best climb on the Main Wall. You can get down with a 60 meter, but make sure you rappel straight down over the overhang/arette. One long pitch |
By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 20, 2011
| I totally agree with Dave re the anchors location. So much so that when we finished this we traversed right and rapped off different anchors. Did not trust those blocks, and there is much better looking base rock nearby. Maybe thats just the advantage of having a hammer with you, but I didn't have one, so there. |
By SpencerTaylorParkin
Aug 25, 2011
| The "crossing over" part of this climb is scary, because there is a spike below the traverse that could easily impale someone that fell right on it. |
By DCrane
From: Taylorsville, Utah
May 25, 2012
rating: 5.8
| I had 4 4-foot slings and some 2-footers (not enough!) and there was still a bit of an issue with drag by the end. Only a 5.8 so not a huge deal, but much harder and it would nearly pull you off the wall - especially with only short draws. Bring lots of runners and you'll be fine. Super fun climb.
Note - We had a 60 meter rope so I belayed my second from the top of the pitch as if in a multi-pitch, he cleaned all the draws on the way up and we both rapped down. Worked out fantastically. |
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