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Start on Bastille Crack
, but at the top of the initial flake go straight up instead of moving left into BC
. There is a bolt beneath an overlap (crux), then up past a second bolt. The route then goes right into 'Wide Country
'. Originally a long pitch that paralleled BC
with a 5.12 move up high, this was an unfortunate casualty of the 1988 bolt wars that had the belay and protection bolt high on pitch removed.
Bolts and thin gear. Hardly a sewup.
By Mic Fairchild
Sep 5, 2008
Rob set the bolts for this with Matt on TR. When he led it with me belaying, the bolt studs were in, but he carried a bag of hangers and a wrench. So, as he got to each bolt, he slapped on a bit of glue, installed the hanger, then clipped the bolt. Pretty fun methodology. There was also a two-bolt belay (at a shelf close to the end of P2 of BC) that made this a great, long pitch. At the height of the bolt wars, this belay and protection bolt for the upper section were excised. The climb now joins 'Wide Country' instead of continuing up.
By Matt Battaglia
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Great Route! Rob told me to get on this route and Interceptors 11c, 2 routes that I think he has FAs of, so I hopped on both. This route is way harder than Interceptors, maybe even 12a I had a tough time figuring out which way to go (L, R, up) in the middle of the route about 15 feet before the mini-roof. In the process, I broke off the biggest foothold I could find making it quite thin there. Check it out.