This route makes a nice warm up for many of the other harder lines at this cliff and it's a great climb. Start is the same as for Lambda but at the first bolt head left and continue to diagonal up and left. Use a long runner when clipping the first bolt on Lambda to reduce the rope drag. The entire climb involves making long reaches to really positive horizontals, many of these horizontals offer great hand jams for rests. Continue to a large ledge under the upper overhanging headwall.
Locate the obvious orange Arete (Floaters, 5.10d). This climb is the second bolted line to the right from Floaters. (There's a mixed line between Floaters and Cross Eyed and Blind that is not in the Cater Guide, 3rd edition).
8 bolts, shuts
milking the bomber double hand jam rests
Doing the moves on this awesome route.
setting up for the early crux move
pulling through the upper crux section
May 26, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Awesome climb, big moves on pretty good holds for the most part (only like two crimps on the entire route). Pumped me out so I hung my way up it. Looking forward to hopping back on soon and sending. Felt like an 11a to me, but I'm not the best when it comes to big/dynamic movements.