Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Lower Smoking Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cosmonaut 
Croft Problem 
Unnamed  
Unnamed v7 

Croft Problem 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Peter Croft?
Page Views: 569
Submitted By: Kevin Hadfield on Feb 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The entirety of the line. Start bottom right, end ...

Description 

Begin on large holds down and right (same holds for Cos...). Bust left to good scoops and complete the middle sequence one of a number of ways... As long as it is going up, I think it counts. Gain a good right facing "ear" and either cross or bear down on the "slimper" to bust right to jugs and either a drop off finish or up flakes to the top of the boulder.

Location 

West face of the boulder.

Protection 

Mash mats...


Comments on Croft Problem Add Comment
Show which comments
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Apr 8, 2012

Funny/humbling story:

After watching a climber do the moves, I put my shoes on, chalked up, and easily flashed this problem. Feeling pretty good about myself, I decided to explore some famous "moderates" around the Milks'. I landed on Birthday Direct, a classic V3.

In short: I had a mini-epic, and barely sent after like 40 tries.

I love rock-climbing.
By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Dec 5, 2013

The drop-off finish is lame and not really legit IMO. I don't know why Wills wrote it up in the guide that way. It's not any chossier than any other topout in the Milks. I wouldn't say that the finish chages the grade all that much (being V1 or so on its own), but it does make the problem better and more committing. Top it out!
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 15, 2014
rating: V7 7A+

Pretty chill for v8, but the topout is sharp and scary
By Kevin Hadfield
From: New Castle, CO
Apr 17, 2014

The top out is amazing!! and a must do for the problems on this wall. 1 star with drop off, 3-4 with proper top out.
By Daniel Winsor
Jan 4, 2016
rating: V6 7A

The grade is really height/reach dependent. If you can span from the heuco (at about head height) up to the jug without having to use the slopey sidepull, it feels much easier, maybe V6. Even V6 seems generous when this line feels easier than Change of Heart and Pope's Prow around the corner..... but shorter climbers will absolutely be trying V8 hard. The topout is doable, and I'm usually a nazi about topping things out, but not this face. It's chossy, razor flakes. I'd save your skin for something else.
By Andy Liu
From: Eastern Sierra
Mar 17, 2016


The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!