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The second route from the left edge of the Crimpfest Wall.
However, there is more route potential here and those directions may prove to be incorrect sometime next summer. A better way to identify this is to go to the left edge of the wall and look for a route with an obvious crocodile shaped flake just left of the third bolt.
This is a good and fun line. It is ostensibly rated the same as Crimpfest
, but people usually agree that it is about a letter grade easier than Crimpfest
. You will climb over some hollow sounding flakes and fragile features - rest assured that the bolts are good and this route has seen some traffic - I think the features are permanent.
All the same, don't camp out under the route too much.
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I thought this route was pretty awesome. The climbing is excellent and continuous, basically from the time you leave the ground until the last ramble to the anchors (I used the old ones on the left to get down, worked pretty well). The crocodile feature is really cool, the crux is cryptic and semi-improbable. The upper crux is perfect climbing. The only slight knock against this route would be that several key holds seemed pretty fragile, particularly the pancake flake at the upper crux.