Cro-Magnon aka The Tail
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Shirtail Peak has two prominent aretes; Tiger Balm/Gambit on the left and Giouco Piano on the right. The Mountaineer's Route goes up the big dihedral in between. Three routes cross the "crux buttress" level with P2 of Gambit on the wall between Gambit and Mountaineer's; The Throne, Cro-Magnon and Serrated Jam Crack.
P1: Climb the slab midway between Mountaineer's and Gambit to a short dihedral/small roof (5.8) and up to a large tree with slings.
P2: Follow a short finger crack over a roof (5.8) and up the small left-facing dihedral above. Place gear as the crack in the dihedral ends and traverse one move right and then up thin cracks to a sloping ledge (crux.) Cro-Magnon takes the left (smaller) of the two cracks above the sloping ledge, the larger crack on the right is Serrated Jam Crack. Follow the thin crack (5.9) up to a short face. Climb the thin face (5.8?) up to the two-pin, one bolt anchor on The Throne. I clipped the last bolt on The Throne for gear here as the flakes seem pretty fragile.
A 60M rope should get you down to the tree with slings and another rap to the ground, or finish up to the top on Gambit or something else. Using a 50M rope left us with a little soloing to do between belays, not hard but exposed.
I really enjoyed this climb so I gave it three stars, I suspect others may only give it two, since it is only the second pitch that it outstanding. This route is fairly sustained, the pro is good but takes a little thought to place.
A word on loose rock: Shirtail has it! There were 5 parties on Gambit last Saturday, I got pegged in the head by a pebble and we saw a basketball size boulder crash on the slabs at the base from up high. This is not a good crag to get too popular, but it seems that the lure of Gambit is high.
Lots of wires and some small to medium cams
Lenny Miller jams through the 5.8 roof at the star...
Lenny places some gear at the start of the crux.
Lenny Miller sends the crux moves of Cromagnon. Th...
|Comments on Cro-Magnon aka The Tail
|By David Houston|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Mar 21, 2003
The red line on the photo above is Gambit, so Cro-Magnon follows a line halfway between Gambit and the big dihedral of Mountaineer's.
|By Bryson Slothower|
Apr 12, 2003
Great route but David is not kidding about the loose rock up there. I too clipped the bolt on Throne just below the anchor because I found the slab moves to be pretty tricky and well above my last piece (a small nut). I found good gear placements often occupied the good holds, mostly nuts and small cams. I also used the edge of S. Jam Crack at times for my right hand and foot and got a good rest. If going to the top it's probably better to climb past the anchor and belay a the next ledge wih a large pine tree.
|By Shane Zentner|
Oct 18, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The second pitch is good with fun moves beginning with the roof. Green alien at the crux. Make a good placement where the crack ends(blue alien) and run it out to the bolt, or as I did, placed an ify yellow alien in a very hollow flake. The first pitch is funky.
|By Ben Hicks|
From: Black Hawk, CO
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
Good adventure climbing, Patrik lead the funky first pitch, circuitous, wandering up, right and up, and right and up. Seems like pro is where you need it if you are creative. Look out for some wasps in a thin crack!
Second pitch, Good climbing if you are solid at the grade, but I would not recommend this for someone's first 5.10 lead! Expect some moderate run outs and having to work on some of the pro. Would be a banner pitch if the rock was truly solid and placements a bit more bomber. It might protect a bit better with differently shaped small passive gear than the nuts I had. There are some creaky and loose flakes and a sizable dinner plate flake that I avoided entirely that seems ready to peel off. Traversed left to the "The Throne" top bolt, then past the anchor, left into the corner and up to the big ledge/tree belay to continue up Ginseng Junkie rather than belaying at the bolt/knife blade anchor on The Throne.