|Type: ||Trad, 100'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Ruckman Bros.|
|Season: ||morning sun, afternoon shade|
|Page Views: ||3,394|
|Submitted By: ||camhead on Mar 13, 2007|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Buttshot of me gunning it to the anchors on Critic...
This is a super classic, super pumpy splitter. Goes from tips with quite a few feet to pumpy good fingers, a bit of off-fingers, and then a final thirty foot sprint through STEEP perfect hands to the anchors. Sometimes sandy, and usually unsullied by lame-ass chalk and tick marks.
From the approach trail's topout, go a few hundred yards to the right, then look for the most classic splitter on the cliff.
You will die if you use Bloom's gear beta of only one .5 Friend. Friends Sizes: (4).5, (3).75, (2)1, (3)1.5, (3)2.5, (2)3
BETA PHOTO: J.A. preparing for an eventual ass-kicking on Crit...
|Comments on Critic's Choice
Apr 14, 2010
A good primer for Ziji's second pitch, which is also sandy but with rattly fingers. For me, the finger crack on Critic's Choice was more like flared tips than the sinker locks I usually get on yellow-Alien/Metolius-sized cracks.
|By Andrew McMullin|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2011
Climbed this route on Oct 30. It was one of the best splitter cracks I've ever done and had an adventure element to it because it was sandy. At first the sand scared me, but I quickly realized that it barely affected my ability to jam. Fun to climb a route with no chalk on it. My gear beta is to bring plenty of small stuff up to green camalots, one red camalot and 3 gold camalots. Also, there is a decent warmup to the right that isn't in the book...a 5.10+ with a stone marker that is called "b.b.c. From cleveland.". It's a chimney to an interesting green camalot double crack to a #3 camalot finish. A #4 is optional for the top. Good chains.