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Critic's Choice

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 
Barley Route T 
BBC from Cleveland T 
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 
Break a Leg T 
Bunny Slope T 
Critic's Choice T 
Cult Classic T 
Ed's World T 
Fist of Fury T 
Fisticuffs T 
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 
Life.... T 
Mr. Bad News T 
Mr. Critical T 
New Life or Second Life T 
Ruby Flame T 
Sabrina T 
Second Choice T 
Sgt. Fish Scale T 
Wrench Route  T 

Critic's Choice Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.02769, -109.60935 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,139
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Mar 13, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
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some unknown corner offwidth just to the right of ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There are a few hard testpieces here, as well as some easier stuff. This cliff does not have quite the concentration of routes that other Creek crags do, and there seems to be quite a bit of loose and fresh rockfall here, but it is still worth a visit. Morning sun, afternoon shade in the summer.

Getting There 

This is the second large canyon/valley on the right as you drive up toward Beef Basin from Bridger Jack area. Right after a cattle guard (and before you hit the turnoff to Way Rambo/Pistol Whipped area), take the high clearance track to the right. Parking is at the end of this road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.3 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',9],['5.11',7],['5.12',1],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Critic's Choice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Critic's Choice:
Bunny Slope   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Sabrina   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Ed's World   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Wrench Route    5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
BBC from Cleveland   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Fisticuffs   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 75'   
Second Choice   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 100'   
Ruby Flame   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Break a Leg   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 80'   
Critic's Choice   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 100'   
Belly Full of Bad Berries   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Critic's Choice

Featured Route For Critic's Choice
Rock Climbing Photo: Shaun Reed pulling the lip on his route Fist of Fu...

Fist of Fury 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Critic's Choice
We did this route a few years ago now (2011?) and I may not have the details quite right. This route is 5 - 10 minutes to the left of Bunny Slope, around the corner. I still need to go back and put a plaque at the base, but the route has an obvious fist to OW crack roof traverse (the route's namesake) about 80 or 90 ft up that is about 10 ft long. The crack starts off the ground as fingers and slowly widens to hands before the roof, then good fists and liebacking through the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Critic's Choice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: KW on the wide project.. and i mean WIDE
KW on the wide project.. and i mean WIDE
Rock Climbing Photo: Critic's Choice Wall. Belly Full of Bad Berries ta...
Critic's Choice Wall. Belly Full of Bad Berries ta...

Comments on Critic's Choice Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Aug 29, 2009
Alex Honnold sending Belly Full of Bad Berries

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