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Critic's Choice

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 
Barley Route T 
BBC from Cleveland T 
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 
Break a Leg T 
Bunny Slope T 
Critic's Choice T 
Cult Classic T 
Ed's World T 
Fisticuffs T 
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 
Life.... T 
Mr. Bad News T 
Mr. Critical T 
New Life or Second Life T 
Ruby Flame T 
Sabrina T 
Second Choice T 
Sgt. Fish Scale T 
Wrench Route  T 

Critic's Choice 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 57,671
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: camhead on Mar 13, 2007
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Clear
80° | 58°
Mostly Cloudy
87° | 60°
Clear
84° | 55°
Clear
85° | 57°
Clear
87° | 59°
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Description 

There are a few hard testpieces here, as well as some easier stuff. This cliff does not have quite the concentration of routes that other Creek crags do, and there seems to be quite a bit of loose and fresh rockfall here, but it is still worth a visit. Morning sun, afternoon shade in the summer.


Getting There 

This is the second large canyon/valley on the right as you drive up toward Beef Basin from Bridger Jack area. Right after a cattle guard (and before you hit the turnoff to Way Rambo/Pistol Whipped area), take the high clearance track to the right. Parking is at the end of this road.


Climbing Season


20 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',9],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Critic's Choice:
Bunny Slope   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Sabrina   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
BBC from Cleveland   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Fisticuffs   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 75'   
Ruby Flame   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Second Choice   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 100'   
Critic's Choice   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 100'   
Belly Full of Bad Berries   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Critic's Choice

Featured Route For Critic's Choice
Buttshot of me gunning it to the anchors on Critic's Choice.

Critic's Choice 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Critic's Choice
This is a super classic, super pumpy splitter. Goes from tips with quite a few feet to pumpy good fingers, a bit of off-fingers, and then a final thirty foot sprint through STEEP perfect hands to the anchors. Sometimes sandy, and usually unsullied by lame-ass chalk and tick marks....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for Critic's Choice
Photos of Critic's Choice Slideshow Add Photo
Critic's Choice Wall. Belly Full of Bad Berries takes the left side of the arch. The huge dihedral on the left is Ruby Flame. Bunny Slope takes the smaller dihedral just right. November 2007
Critic's Choice Wall. Belly Full of Bad Berries ta...
KW on the wide project.. and i mean WIDE
KW on the wide project.. and i mean WIDE
Comments on Critic's Choice Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Aug 29, 2009

Alex Honnold sending Belly Full of Bad Berries