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Routes in University Wall
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Critical Mass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Le Pumping Bull T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Room With A View S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Skinwalker, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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White Punks on Rope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Darryl Roth, Richard Aschert, August '87 |
| Page Views: | 1,911 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
This cliff sits on private property. The crag was "closed" by the land owner at one time, but the land has since changed hands. The current land owner's view on climbing access is unknown.
Per K McG: this crag is on private property. The parceling and sale of lots on Dilley Ranch, which used to own University Wall, has created an unfortunate situation. University Wall now is split into 3 parts, each sitting on a different owner’s lot. The left 1/3 (northernmost) is on a huge piece of undeveloped land. The owner is not interested in splitting off any portion of it. The middle 1/3 is owned by reasonable people, but they do not own access to the bottom of the wall from either side. The righthand 1/3 (westernmost) is owned by people who have vowed to shoot trespassers. It is not worth it to try to climb here. Please stay away.
Per K McG: this crag is on private property. The parceling and sale of lots on Dilley Ranch, which used to own University Wall, has created an unfortunate situation. University Wall now is split into 3 parts, each sitting on a different owner’s lot. The left 1/3 (northernmost) is on a huge piece of undeveloped land. The owner is not interested in splitting off any portion of it. The middle 1/3 is owned by reasonable people, but they do not own access to the bottom of the wall from either side. The righthand 1/3 (westernmost) is owned by people who have vowed to shoot trespassers. It is not worth it to try to climb here. Please stay away.
Description
Perhaps Shelf's first 5.13 lead, Critical Mass climbs an amazing, bulging buttress of exquisite, bullet limestone. The business comes quick with a brutal "B2" boulder problem on poor crimps to reach a sinker 2-finger pocket at the first bolt. The crux ends with a big move to reach a large, flat edge at the 2nd bolt. The angle relents as the line moves left, into a scoop, past a bit of a runout to reach the third bolt. More featured black stone leads to a sloping ledge with a small dead tree halfway up the cliff. Continue up the steep, black headwall to the top of the cliff. No anchor.
Location
About 100' right of The Skinwalker is an overhanging hand crack (named "Pocket Rocket") in an orange wall. Critical Mass is the line of bolts 20' right of this crack.
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