Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ice Cream Parlor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10 TR TR 
5.6 Corner T 
A Good Day to Die T 
Bastardized Old Route T 
Black Slab S 
Brewed Awakenings T 
Brush Your Teeth T,S 
Coffin Crack T 
Crack 2 T 
Crack 3 T 
Critical Mass T 
Epidemic T 
Freezer Burn T,S 
Hot Karl Sunday S 
Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 
Jumbletron, The T 
Knee Grinder T 
Kura Buran S 
Left Slab S 
Linda's Way T 
Nightlight T,S 
Pandemic T 
Parlor Game S 
Pork Soda T 
Possessed S 
Rain S 
Rattler T 
RP City T 
Slab Route S 
Space Ghost T 
Sticky Fingers S 
T-Rex T,S 
Vanilla Cream T,S 
Wolverine T 
Unsorted Routes:

Critical Mass 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Baker, Andy Roberts
Page Views: 4,322
Submitted By: Greg D on Apr 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
James on Critical Mass (taken from the road below)

Description 

Start up a slightly left slanting off fingers crack, move right (rock is poor if continuing left) then head back left and up to anchors on a right facing wall.

Location 

This route starts 30 feet left and slightly down the hill from 5.6 Corner.

Protection 

Camalots .4 to 1. An extra .5 or .75 and a few medium nuts to sew it up.


Photos of Critical Mass Slideshow Add Photo
new guy in the desert enjoying some crack
new guy in the desert enjoying some crack
On Lead
On Lead
The finger crack start of Unkown 8.
The finger crack start of Unkown 8.
Mia Greene (10) on the crack.
Mia Greene (10) on the crack.

Comments on Critical Mass Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Scoggins
From: Boise, ID
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I sewed it up pretty well with single cams from blue Zero (about .3 C4) up to #4 friend. After the initial fingers section, it mellows out A LOT, but the rock gets much worse.
By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2009

If this ends at/below a rotten rock choked dihedral, then it's called Critical Mass. Thinking it was the last route that could be sneaked in to the area. Of course we were wrong. F.A. Mike Baker, Andy Roberts, and Wilson Goodrich.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun little route away from the crowds of the main crag. Lots of little edges around the crack make for some good rests.
By Grant Burton
From: Holladay, UT
Jun 2, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I wish the initial crack could just go the whole way to the anchors! This is a great lead for those new to the grade, plenty of pro and rests. Probably closer to a 5.7.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!