Critical Mass 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Mike Baker, Andy Roberts |
| Submitted By: | Greg D on Apr 7, 2008 |
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Tommy gets a taste of the sharp end on "Unknown 8"...
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Description Start up a slightly left slanting off fingers crack, move right (rock is poor if continuing left) then head back left and up to anchors on a right facing wall.
Location This route starts 30 feet left and slightly down the hill from 5.6 Corner.
Protection Camalots .4 to 1. An extra .5 or .75 and a few medium nuts to sew it up.
On Lead
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new guy in the desert enjoying some crack
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The finger crack start of Unkown 8.
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James on Critical Mass (taken from the road below)
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Mia Greene (10) on the crack.
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| Comments on Critical Mass |
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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.8-
| I sewed it up pretty well with single cams from blue Zero (about .3 C4) up to #4 friend. After the initial fingers section, it mellows out A LOT, but the rock gets much worse. |
By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2009
| If this ends at/below a rotten rock choked dihedral, then it's called Critical Mass. Thinking it was the last route that could be sneaked in to the area. Of course we were wrong. F.A. Mike Baker, Andy Roberts, and Wilson Goodrich. |
By Josh Cameron
Jun 12, 2011
| A fun little route away from the crowds of the main crag. Lots of little edges around the crack make for some good rests. |
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