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Ice Cream Parlor
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Unsorted Routes:

Critical Mass 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Baker, Andy Roberts
Page Views: 3,450
Submitted By: Greg D on Apr 7, 2008
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Tommy gets a taste of the sharp end on "Unknown 8"...


Start up a slightly left slanting off fingers crack, move right (rock is poor if continuing left) then head back left and up to anchors on a right facing wall.


This route starts 30 feet left and slightly down the hill from 5.6 Corner.


Camalots .4 to 1. An extra .5 or .75 and a few medium nuts to sew it up.

Photos of Critical Mass Slideshow Add Photo
James on Critical Mass (taken from the road below)
James on Critical Mass (taken from the road below)
On Lead
On Lead
The finger crack start of Unkown 8.
The finger crack start of Unkown 8.
new guy in the desert enjoying some crack
new guy in the desert enjoying some crack
Mia Greene (10) on the crack.
Mia Greene (10) on the crack.
Comments on Critical Mass Add Comment
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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

I sewed it up pretty well with single cams from blue Zero (about .3 C4) up to #4 friend. After the initial fingers section, it mellows out A LOT, but the rock gets much worse.

By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2009

If this ends at/below a rotten rock choked dihedral, then it's called Critical Mass. Thinking it was the last route that could be sneaked in to the area. Of course we were wrong. F.A. Mike Baker, Andy Roberts, and Wilson Goodrich.

By Josh Cameron
Jun 12, 2011

A fun little route away from the crowds of the main crag. Lots of little edges around the crack make for some good rests.