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Ice Cream Parlor
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Critical Mass 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Baker, Andy Roberts
Page Views: 4,814
Submitted By: Greg D on Apr 7, 2008

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James on Critical Mass (taken from the road below)

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Start up a slightly left slanting off fingers crack, move right (rock is poor if continuing left) then head back left and up to anchors on a right facing wall.


This route starts 30 feet left and slightly down the hill from 5.6 Corner.


Camalots .4 to 1. An extra .5 or .75 and a few medium nuts to sew it up.

Photos of Critical Mass Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: new guy in the desert enjoying some crack
new guy in the desert enjoying some crack
Rock Climbing Photo: On Lead
On Lead
Rock Climbing Photo: The finger crack start of Unkown 8.
The finger crack start of Unkown 8.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mia Greene (10) on the crack.
Mia Greene (10) on the crack.

Comments on Critical Mass Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I sewed it up pretty well with single cams from blue Zero (about .3 C4) up to #4 friend. After the initial fingers section, it mellows out A LOT, but the rock gets much worse.
By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2009

If this ends at/below a rotten rock choked dihedral, then it's called Critical Mass. Thinking it was the last route that could be sneaked in to the area. Of course we were wrong. F.A. Mike Baker, Andy Roberts, and Wilson Goodrich.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun little route away from the crowds of the main crag. Lots of little edges around the crack make for some good rests.
By Grant Burton
From: Holladay, UT
Jun 2, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I wish the initial crack could just go the whole way to the anchors! This is a great lead for those new to the grade, plenty of pro and rests. Probably closer to a 5.7.

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