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 ADVANCED
Zoo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Flush, The TR 
Body Suit T 
Closed Heimer T 
Conflict In Terms T,TR 
Crazy Alice T 
Critical Mass T,TR 
Dihedral, The T,TR 
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 
Extended Altar Call T 
Fantasy Roof T,TR 
Flying Nun Variation T 
Flying Nun, The T 
Knuckle Sandwich T 
Larin Has Balls T 
Leap Frog T,TR 
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 
Masters of Reality T 
McBride's Mind T 
No Stone Unturned T,TR 
Resurrection Factor T 
Richard Pryor Route T 
Scrotum Roof T,TR 
Shake and Bake T 
Side Saddle T,TR 
Slap Roof T 
Sloth T 
Squeeze Play T,TR 
Straight Face TR 
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 
Sweet Jesus T,TR 
Time the Avenger TR 
Too Much Fun T 
Triple Decker T 
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 
Yellow Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Critical Mass 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 544
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up the slab and then make 3-6 moves through the roof crack to the lip(crux) then move up into a nice handcrack above.

Location 

The easy slab that is just to the right of the main roof section in the middle of Zoo Wall. Look for the roof about 40-50 feet up with a single splitter that is divided at the lip.

Protection 

All gear.


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By Herndon
Feb 11, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is actually a great route. The crack is kind of wavy in width, so you just find the spots that fit you and mild the jams.

I think that this is a super sandbag at .10b. For a while there it was rated .11a by a lot of people who know better.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 4, 2010

10b is the old school rating... example... Dr. Coolhead was rated 10a by the Lohn book, which it's been upgraded to 10d, a more appropriate letter in my book.