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Climb up the slab and then make 3-6 moves through the roof crack to the lip(crux) then move up into a nice handcrack above.
The easy slab that is just to the right of the main roof section in the middle of Zoo Wall. Look for the roof about 40-50 feet up with a single splitter that is divided at the lip.
Feb 11, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This is actually a great route. The crack is kind of wavy in width, so you just find the spots that fit you and mild the jams. Pulling the lip is the crux. Pro is excellent.
I think that this is a super sandbag at .10b. For a while there it was rated .11a.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 4, 2010
10b is the old school rating... example... Dr. Coolhead was rated 10a by the Lohn book, which it's been upgraded to 10d, a more appropriate letter in my book.