Critical Crimps 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 125 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | August 27, 2009 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | May - Sept. |
| Submitted By: | Jay Harrison on Aug 31, 2009 |
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Jamie Macneil on the FA of Critical Crimps
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Description Climb the slab to the short, steep headwall. Pull this toward the right side (bolt-protected crux), then ascend low-angle rock to the steeper face above. Up this via delicate knobs to the large horizontal under the overhang. Pull overhang and step right into the "Attic" where you can use the anchors to belay, or continue upward through the notch left of the roof to the top (original ascent, but the anchors are more convenient).
Location Low point of the cliff. This can be accessed via a scramble downward from near Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It, or by rappeling off the "Patio".
Protection Mixture of cams and quickdraws.
Jamie McNeill leads the FA of Critical Crimps.
| Jason Brechko nearing the overhangs of Critical Cr...
| Jamie McNeill nears the finish line.
| Jeremy Haas on Critical Crimps. At least I'm prett...
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| Comments on Critical Crimps |
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By Jim Lawyer Administrator Aug 15, 2010
| Stellar line, 5 stars for sure. You can lower with a 70m rope from the "Attic". |
By Jonathan Clark From: Philadelphia, PA Aug 23, 2011 rating: 5.10a
| You can lower with a 60m. Make sure the second is tied in. Some simul scrambling is necessary. |
By Nick Weinberg From: Albany, NY Nov 11, 2011
| Excellent climb. Tricky technical move down low, followed by beautiful face climbing and a small roof up high. |
By Kevin Heckeler From: West Sand Lake, New York Sep 3, 2012
| One of the best face climbs I've ever climbed. Can traverse in from Second Job if bouldery starts aint your thing. |
By Benjaminadk From: Lake George, NY Sep 10, 2012 rating: 5.10a
| Awesome must do five star yes yes. one the best lines ive ever climbed in my short career. |
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