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Critical Crimps 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: August 27, 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: May - Sept.
Page Views: 1,376
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Aug 31, 2009
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Jamie McNeill nears the finish line.

Description 

Climb the slab to the short, steep headwall. Pull this toward the right side (bolt-protected crux), then ascend low-angle rock to the steeper face above. Up this via delicate knobs to the large horizontal under the overhang.
Pull overhang and step right into the "Attic" where you can use the anchors to belay, or continue upward through the notch left of the roof to the top (original ascent, but the anchors are more convenient).


Location 

Low point of the cliff. This can be accessed via a scramble downward from near Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It, or by rappeling off the "Patio".


Protection 

Mixture of cams and quickdraws.



Photos of Critical Crimps Slideshow Add Photo
Jamie McNeill leads the FA of Critical Crimps.
Jamie McNeill leads the FA of Critical Crimps.
Jamie Macneil on the FA of Critical Crimps
Jamie Macneil on the FA of Critical Crimps
Jason Brechko nearing the overhangs of Critical Crimps. This pic covers the entire route; the crux is low, just right of and below center.
Jason Brechko nearing the overhangs of Critical Cr...
Jeremy Haas on Critical Crimps. At least I'm pretty sure it is Critical Crimps. Jay?
Jeremy Haas on Critical Crimps. At least I'm prett...
Comments on Critical Crimps Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Aug 15, 2010

Stellar line, 5 stars for sure. You can lower with a 70m rope from the "Attic".

By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

You can lower with a 60m. Make sure the second is tied in. Some simul scrambling is necessary.

By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 11, 2011

Excellent climb. Tricky technical move down low, followed by beautiful face climbing and a small roof up high.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Sep 3, 2012

One of the best face climbs I've ever climbed. Can traverse in from Second Job if bouldery starts aint your thing.

By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Awesome must do five star yes yes. one the best lines ive ever climbed in my short career.

By Lukasz Czyz
Aug 26, 2013

Broken hold just before top out definitely makes this climb even better without changing grade, well protected second crux. Awesome!