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North/West side
Routes Sorted
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Biomechanoid S 
Chocolate Thunder S 
Citizen of Time S 
Crisis In Utopia T 
D'Antonio Approach S 
Dangle Your Participle S 
Hammertime S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
Just Say No To Jugs S 
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 
Lubme S 
Overkill S 
Overlard (aka Foops) S 
Overlichen S 
Overloord S 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 
Primal Scream S 
Putterman Gully Jump S 
Route 7 S 
Route 8 S 
Sandy Pocket Crack T 
Toprope face (unknown) TR 
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 
Vanilla Crack T 
Vasoconstrictor S 
View with a Room S 

Crisis In Utopia 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Peter Gram and Susie Murphy
Page Views: 782
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007

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On his way to a solid onsight, Mike Wheat makes th...

Description 

This is an awesome finger crack up a left leaning open book that is very clean for the meat of the route. It starts via a fifth class scramble up to the crack proper. The bottom and top sections can be technically, a little cruxy. It remains fairly continuous at the grade, but the endurance crux is about 2/3rds of the way up. Can you say finger locks? This stellar route deserves to see a lot more traffic than it does. Go climb it!

Location 

This is the obvious stunning finger crack in an open book directly to the left of Primal Scream.

Protection 

Medium stoppers, a double set of Aliens, and a few runners, get you to a two bolt chained anchor.


Photos of Crisis In Utopia Slideshow Add Photo
Tigger ran onto a bat in the crack on this send of Crisis in Utopia. It had a spooky hiss and showed teeth as he climbed by.
Tigger ran onto a bat in the crack on this send of...
Barto getting some business started with Crisis in Utopia.
Barto getting some business started with Crisis in...

Comments on Crisis In Utopia Add Comment
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By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 8, 2008

This crack is the best one I have done at The Overlook, and is definitely one of the best at its grade in all of White Rock.