A stout climb with fantastic exposure. Nice mix of face and crack climbing with some wide surprises. On pitch one, move up and right to a steep face into a corner/flaring chimney. Sketchy! Pitch two follows a direct line up a crack/corner system. Pitch three continues up a crack before traversing left under a roof to a steep slabby finish.
Look for two or three small roofs down low. Above you will see a left facing corner/slot. The route starts left of the small roofs. There are fixed anchors at the top of the first and second pitches. Gear anchor necessary for the last pitch. To descend, pass through a small notch near the summit to the west side. Drop into a large dish with rappel anchors just below a small tree. Rappel down (over) a gulley. Be careful not to fall into the slot.
Bring your standard rack. At least on fist size piece will be useful
BETA PHOTO: This is a view of the headstone as you approach do...
BETA PHOTO: Approximate topo of the route, using my advanced e...
Mar 5, 2007
A Top-20 Lemmon trad classic.
Mar 5, 2007
jbak, I find myself agreeing with you again.
Rhicard and I jumped on your new thing at Prison Camp. Fun route, a bit crimpy for my taste but worth the effort to get. Very sequencey.
I need to redpoint Sentenced to Hang (which is taking me a few more runs than I thought) then I'll sacrifice the tips for your route.
I like that wall!!
By the way we bolted Crime and Punishment, so there's another good sport warmup for the hard stuff.
Mar 5, 2007
Yeah, I guess I'll post it up. The name's a play on the crimpiness.
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 30, 2007
Make sure to get some pro in on the easy leftward traverse at the end of the third pitch because there is one last tricky upwards move to get to the belay..Probably the random guano around there doesn't help either..
I'm not sure if that last move was the cause of the Alex Pendleton accident (see climbaz.com) but I thought I'd put this out there anyway..
|By James DeRoussel|
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 6, 2008
As mentioned above, this climb was host to a leader fatality in recent years. Ought not to be taken lightly at the grade.
|By John Hayes|
From: Bend, OR
Jan 6, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I agree that this is a classic. There are (at least) two starts possible. One steps left up the very shallow left facing corner system into the crack that leads up and back right to the first belay alcove. The second start goes pretty much straight up the steep cracks just to the right of the big corner system (to the right of the first start.) Both starts are about equally difficult though I find the right version slightly more strenuous.
|By John Steiger|
Feb 19, 2010
This is one of several now-classic routes on Mt. Lemmon first climbed in 1971 (others include Trick or Treat, Centerpiece, Fiutt, Helms Deep, and Voodoo Child). For a more challenging variation, climb the thin crack of Gashlycrumb Tinies (5.11a) to the first belay (maybe a 3-4 star pitch itself, but double up on the small wires).