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 ADVANCED
Holds Up Bluff North
Select Route:
Beer and Smear T,TR 
Block Dance T 
Cripple Crack T 
Fantasy Land T,S,TR 
Fear and Smear T,TR 
Seaweed Patch T,S,TR 

Cripple Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,660
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Apr 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Cripple Crack

Description 

A classic beginners route, either on lead or toprope, and is just plain fun. Because of this it's usually crowded, but worth the wait.

Head up the crack using mostly face holds to the chain anchors.

Location 

Look for the obvious crack system just right of the short but fat right-facing dihedral (where you'll find Fear and Smear), set back from the road.

Protection 

Standard rack


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By gregybn
Apr 8, 2008

A blocky crack and ledge route... takes nice cam placements all the way (great for beginning leaders)... an interesting mini-roof move at the crux that protects very well (I think with a #3 Friend)... then run out the low angle crack to the top.