Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cactus Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affluenza 
Afterburner 
Agave 
Alexi's Climb 
Alignment, The 
Almost French 
Almost Gothic 
Amiga 
Are You Experiential? 
Awesome Offwidthin' 
Axis of Evil 
Banana Split 
Barbed Wire Love 
Beach Ball 
Beef Cake Formula 
Bionic Minnow 
Black Slabbeth 
Blackman's Burden 
Blade Runner 
Blarney Stone, The 
Blond Princes 
Bombodido 
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The 
Bur-Har-Bur 
Cactus Cliff Addict 
Candy for Big Kids 
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") 
Cellulite District 
Centurion Enigma 
Cheeseburger In Paradise 
Child's Play 
Chompin' at the Cholla 
Christmas Tree 
Chunky Monkey 
Cobra 
Commitment 
Crimpin' and Pimpin' 
Crimpson Candy 
Critic's Choice 
Cro-Magnum 
Crynoid Corner 
Cure For The Common Crimp 
Da Fly 
Dances with Cholla 
Dereliction Affliction 
Dihedrus 
Divinity School 
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves 
Early Bird 
Escalando 
Et Tu, Brutus 
Fantasia 
Fast Food Nation 
Fishisms 
Flight of the Phoenix 
French Are Here, The 
Fully Equipped 
Funkdemental 
Gabby 
Glass Babies 
Glue Slippage 
Good Red Road, The 
Gravitations 
Great Expectations 
Half Breed 
Hero Driver 
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? 
High Heeled Tittty Twister 
Hot Beach 
Hurricane Hinzi 
I Claudius 
I Lean 
I'm Having A Vision 
Ian's Climb 
Illegal Smile 
Impulsive Hands 
Institutional Meat 
Jamuary 
Joy of Cholla, The 
Jumpin' the Gun 
Just Thesenga It 
Kalahari Sidewinder 
Killer Toupee, The 
King Louie's Traverse 
Kodachrome 
La Temperatura de Shelf 
LaCholla Jackson 
Lats Don't Have Feelings 
Legend on the Fall 
Leisure Class 
Manly Bulges 
Midget Toss 
Misalignment 
Morning Joe 
Muscle Beach 
New Ethics 
New World Order 
Ol' 47 
Oscar de la Cholla 
Out There Take Anything 
Paleolithic Tool Traditions 
Part Muffalo 
Pick Pocket 
Politically Incorrect 
Poquito Mas 
Puff Daddy 
Purple Corner 
Quarterback 
Quasi Quasar 
Raven, The 
Reach Around, The 
Red Eclipse 
Red Giant 
Redman's Burden 
Relampago 
Richard Simmons' Tanktop 
Risky Business 
Shelf Pride 
Short Man's Burden 
Six More Bottles of Basco 
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass 
Slicer 
Solar Eclipse 
Spray Lord 
Squeeze the Moment 
Stand, The 
Super Suka 
Third Stage 
Three-Quarter Ton 
Thumbs Up 
Tits Up 
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat 
Total Recount 
Totally Blonde 
Turkey's Bleak 
Two For One 
Under A Blood Red Wall 
Unknown 
Usual Suspects, The 
Utter To A Scream 
Wadsworth Boulevard 
White Punks on Pockets 
Whiteman's Burden 
Working Man 
World Peace 
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine 

Crimpson Candy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Musso, 2000
Page Views: 828
Submitted By: Barrett Cooper on Jan 19, 2003
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Larry workin' it high on Crimpson Candy.

Description 

Left of Funkdemental and The Raven, this climb is a little deceptive for 10b. Start at a prominent reddish block. Climb up over the bright red rock and stand atop it for the second clip. From there the rating gets more accurate and you can go left of the arete or straight on to the bolts. Either way you go you will have to use some balance to clip as the route does not have a lot of easy clip stances. Layback and undercling the corner block just before the anchors. It is probably easier to clip the anchors if you get into the crack above and to their right as trying to stretch out to the anchors from below was unbalanced.


Protection 

8 [now updated to 9] bolts to anchors.



Photos of Crimpson Candy Slideshow Add Photo
Cactus Cliff - Right (1). <br /> <br />The Price is Right is now named Legend on the Fall. <br /> <br />La Estacion de Shelf is now named La Temperatura de Shelf.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1).

The Price is Right is n...
BETA PHOTO
Larry Rossi leading Crimpson Candy.
Larry Rossi leading Crimpson Candy.
Climber leading Crimpson Candy.
Climber leading Crimpson Candy.
Comments on Crimpson Candy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darin Lang
Jan 30, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The bolt placement makes the last layback/undercling before the anchors a bit more ... ennervating .. than other climbs at Cactus. Reasonably fun route with good variety.

By Edward Jenner
Dec 15, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Didn't like this one at all. The sort-of-fun moves at the end don't make up for the rest of the climb. We also lowered off the rings and got our rope really badly twisted. I'd not recommend this route, but if you have a go then rap off the anchors.

Glad to see Darin rate it a bit higher than 10b because I thought it was hard compared to other 10a/b's at Cactus. On the other hand, it may have just felt hader because I wasn't enjoying myself.

By Jeff St. Pierre
Dec 29, 2003

A couple Alien placements helped de-spice the "balancey" bolt-clips. The guidebook says something along the lines of "when the going gets tough, head left around the corner." However, I felt that sets you up for a pendulum into the corner... especially when heading left at the anchor, which I saw a couple people do. It's a lengthy run to the anchor, and while the hands are bomber, the feet are thin (going straight up, not left), and a whoops might not be such a clean fall. Not a bad route, but I don't think I'd do it again.

By Michael J Yarros
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 3, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Enjoyed climbing this route. Gets thin near the anchor.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 15, 2012

Anchor setup needs some work. Currently rings with single quicklinks on each. The quicklinks are facing the wall, so it will twist the hell out of your rope if you use both of them. Either add another set of quicklinks (so they are facing the right way) or remove them and plan to rap off the ring bolts.

By Sarah Meiser
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 7, 2013

I (nervously) enjoyed this climb, but it isn't as safe as most of the other routes in the area. Solid 5.10 leaders will have no problem; new or shaky ones may. There is serious deck potential on a ledge down low, and at the top it is very runout to the anchor on nontrivial terrain.