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Crimps Are For Pimps 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Paul Roberts, Jeff Erickson
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Spring, Summer
Page Views: 921
Submitted By: Pablo-Roberts on Jul 25, 2012

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Top half of Crimps Are For Pimps. Follow the left ...


Climb up the alcove, up the hand crack to the ledge with a tree on it. Climb up blocky ledges until you reach the base of a hand crack on your right, and a thin seam with crimps on your left. Make a few moves up the right crack to place a piece of gear, then traverse left over on to the crimps of the left seam. Follow this past two horizontals and up the seam unit you reach a jug, top this and finish up an easy hand crack to the top.


Start 15 feet left of Little Kisses, in an open book alcove below a hand crack that ends at a tree on a ledge 20 feet above. Start directly below the tree in the alcove.


This line does not need bolts. The first ascent was done on all gear. Small cams, micro cams.

Photos of Crimps Are For Pimps Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom half/start of Crimps Are For Pimps
Bottom half/start of Crimps Are For Pimps
Rock Climbing Photo: On the upper section of Crimps are for Pimps, abou...
On the upper section of Crimps are for Pimps, abou...

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By Jim Lawyer
May 18, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

This route has a super dirty and uninspiring lower section, but it's worth it for the quality climbing on the clean face above. Very spicy: bring your A game. As of this writing, there's no bolt anchor, but rather some long slings on a tree that hang over the edge.

Oh yeah -- the only "handcrack" is at the very top.

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