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 ADVANCED
South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bleed Between the Lines TR 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Crimping Lessons S 
Mamunia S 
Middle Age Crazy T 
Middle Age Crisis S 
Middle Age Savage T 
My Laundry T 
Piggle Pugg T 
Shooting Star T 
Solid Gold T 
Such a Savage T 
Such a Waste TR 
Walking Pneumonia T 

Crimping Lessons 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson & Tom Keaty, December 1991
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: john durr on Oct 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Dave leads and Dave belays...they never stop talki...

Description 

Whether you learn to crimp on this or not, it will definitely bite your finger tips. Ouch!

Follow 5 bolts up steep, sustained and sharp edges. Although the bolts are straight up and down, (how does that happen?), you might want to try to route-find a little. The technical crux is probably getting to and past the first bolt.

Location 

You will find this route squeezed between Solid Gold and My Laundry up a faint rust colored streak.

Protection 

5 old 5/16" button heads, they still seem pretty good by Josh standards and a two bolt belay / rappel anchor with chains. The hangers on this anchor are rusty, cracked leepers. Lower off with one 60 meter rope. Most mortals will consider stick clipping the first bolt.


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By Randy
Oct 6, 2010

Probably 2 or 3 stars out of 5.

Giving it only 1 star on this site is kinda harsh (even if the route is harsh on your fingers).