Crimping Lessons  5.11b/c

317 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] FA:  Louie Anderson & Tom Keaty, December 1991 Submitted By:  john durr on Oct 5, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Dave leads and Dave belays...they never stop talki...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Whether you learn to crimp on this or not, it will definitely bite your finger tips. Ouch!

Follow 5 bolts up steep, sustained and sharp edges. Although the bolts are straight up and down, (how does that happen?), you might want to try to route-find a little. The technical crux is probably getting to and past the first bolt.

Location 

You will find this route squeezed between Solid Gold and My Laundry up a faint rust colored streak.

Protection 

5 old 5/16" button heads, they still seem pretty good by Josh standards and a two bolt belay / rappel anchor with chains. The hangers on this anchor are rusty, cracked leepers. Lower off with one 60 meter rope. Most mortals will consider stick clipping the first bolt.