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Crimp Problem 

Hueco: V3+ Font: 6A+

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
Page Views: 1,467
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Apr 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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AW on 'Crimp Problem' on a hot n' humid july after...


If you don't like crimps, try another problem, but the chalked-up shape of a crescent moon on the rock might suck you in for at least one try. Grab the crimps in the moon, pull on the wall, and dyno for the lip. Sounds easy, right? Alternately, pull on, then gaston a right hand below the lip before popping for the top for an easier time.

For the full value, a soft V6, sit down on some decent crimps and crank into the stand start on the moon.


At the top of the hill in Round Pond, in the alcove created by Jelly Rock and the Hemlock Boulder, next to Brett's Problem & Gadgetry, across from Maxim. The crescent moon is easy to spot on the short face.



Photos of Crimp Problem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy lovin the crimps
Andy lovin the crimps
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt St. Peter on the sit start
Matt St. Peter on the sit start
Rock Climbing Photo: Thomas Scupp on the sit start
Thomas Scupp on the sit start
Rock Climbing Photo: Thomas Scupp on the sit start
Thomas Scupp on the sit start
Rock Climbing Photo: Thomas Scupp on the sit start
Thomas Scupp on the sit start
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt St. Peter on the sit start
Matt St. Peter on the sit start

Comments on Crimp Problem Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lanky
From: Tired
Jul 11, 2008
rating: V3+ 6A+

I use the gaston every time. I think the stand might be hard 3 or even 4. The sit is awkward as hell until you get it juuuuust right. Sweeping the leaves away from the base of the boulder might uncover the feet you need.
By NicoleKurth
From: Londonderry, NH
Aug 24, 2008

i use the gaston as well... i think shooting just to the top would definitely make the grade harder... but fun none the less :]
By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
Jul 11, 2009

yeah i love crimps and this thing has always felt hard for the grade. i think the sit start makes more sense. idk why the stand start is in the book, its kinda pointless in my opinion.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jul 11, 2009

guh lol ive tried this problem everytime i get out to round pond and gotten shut down everytime haha....but it keeps drawing me back... ill get it someday :)
By Jason Scott Heacock
From: Nashua, NH
Feb 9, 2012

I was told this is v6 or at least v5? I am pretty sure v3 is botched...anyone else agree with this? How can a rating be so off, even for pawtuckaway....
By Lanky
From: Tired
Feb 9, 2012
rating: V3+ 6A+

Jason, the sit is a soft V6 and the stand (from the "smiley face" crimp) is a hard V3.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 12, 2012
rating: V3-4 6A+

Agreed. V5/6 for the sit. As for the stand start, v3/4 with the gaston. I don't know if it's that much harder without the gaston. You just gotta really want the dyno. I use the gaston, because it's not worth losing skin on the dyno (which has happened to me!).

Personally I like the sit start better, but the stand start is probably more obvious and accessible to more people, so it makes sense to have both options (in my opinion).
By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Jun 21, 2013

the v3 is crux of the v5/6.
By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 22, 2014

When I was a v3 climber this felt impossible. When I climbed v3 pretty easily but with some effort this felt impossible. Now, it goes but still feels harder than other v3s to me, maybe it's my anti-style, who knows. This is all with gaston beta.

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