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82 Crag
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Afro Samurai 
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Crimp Chimp 
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Politics of Dancing, The 
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Unsorted Routes:

Crimp Chimp 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alden Pellet
Page Views: 1,313
Submitted By: Derek Doucet on Jun 13, 2010
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Description 

Climb the easy slab past 2 bolts to the obvious horizontal break. Surmount the break, then step up and right in to a thin, left angling crack system. This crack is difficult to see from below. Follow the crack up and left past a delicate sequence (5.9-) and make a moderate runout to lower angle rock and more gear. Now step up and right, and either belay at the 2-bolt anchor, or clip it long and continue up and slightly left on to the superb bolted face. Climb this sustained (5.9+) face all the way to the top of the cliff and a second fixed anchor. Done as one lead, this makes for a long and excellent pitch. It's also fun as 2 shorter pitches.


Location 

Begin at the obvious, slightly mossy slab just up and right from point where the approach trail meets the cliff.


Protection 

A few very small wires (#4 or 5 RP helpful), and single cams from fingers to tight hands. If climbing the route in one pitch (highly recommended!), 15+ draws and runners are needed. The 5.9+ crux section is very well protected. There is easier (5.9-) climbing protected in part by a tiny wire in schist. It looks as bomber as a tiny nut can, but one never knows...there is also some rather run out easier climbing. Nothing to be overly concerned about for a very solid 5.9 leader, but not a good route to dog one's way up!



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