|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 13, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Stickclip bolt 2 if 12a is hard for you, especially if you don't have the beta dialed. The technical crux (just before bolt 2) appears to be somewhat height/reach-dependent, and the 2nd clip can be dicey sometimes. Angle right after clipping the 3rd bolt to stay on Crimp Chimp, which starts what is generally the redpoint crux. Although most find it a bit more difficult than the other popular 12-'s, Against Nature and Moat Jump, strong people who regularly climb steep stuff may find Crimp Chimp to be easier, as there are a lot of options for feet, and it's a bit more straightforward to read than those climbs.
Oh, and don't be deterred by the name: it's not as heinously crimpy as suggested.
An alternate, slightly harder (5.12b) finish to this climb angles left from bolt 3 past an independent bolt to the Tendon Bendin' anchors. It's worthy if you're bored of the same old Crimp Chimp, but is not as good as the normal finish. It has a big move where the climb diverges from Crimp Chimp. Also, using the same-link-up bolt, one can also cross from Tendon Bender into the end of Crimp Chimp ("Moonboot Mission", 12c, which I haven't tried); that seems a less logical line and would climb through some choss after the lip but adds a couple more hard moves to Tendon Bender.