Crimes of Passion
||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Bob Gaines Charlie Peterson August 1987, Direct Start Gob Gaines and Charlie Peterson August 1997|
|Page Views: ||684|
|Submitted By: ||Murf on Sep 21, 2009|
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Crimes of Passion climbs parallel to Fingertrip, crosses at the second pitch arch and continues until the eponymous Fingertrip Traverse.
Original Start: Startup Fingertrip, but traverse left after about 40 feet.
Direct Start: Start as for The Slab, up and right of the start of Fingertrip. Climb toward a visible bolt on a short headwall. Clipping the bolt/slapping the top of the headwall is an exercise in height, balance, or some combo of both. Pull the mantle, and attempt to avoid "beached whale syndrome". Do the same to the next easier mantle (with a bolt) to join the original start.
The climbing through the next three bolts is for the most part continuous 5.10 climbing, not always with the comfort of a quickdraw in front of your face. You are pretty much out of sight for everyone on the ground, so while your heroics will go unnoticed, sound travels quite well so your histrionics will be.
Pitch 2: Climb up and left of the belay to a bolt, then work the flakes up to the arch (optional belay here). Cross Fingertrip and climb the "upper arch" to a bolt and a baffling slab move to join Fingertrip Traverse. Belay as far up and left as your rope will allow.
Pitch 3: Join the pack train up to Lunch Ledge and beyond. Remember the alternate finish to the right of the "1 Bolt Slab", or be prepared to queue endlessly.
There is a 140' rap from the first belay.
Normal rack, with perhaps some double in finger sizes.
NOTE: The crux bolt is a 1/4' with a solid looking Leeper hanger. The move is hard and difficult to reverse. While you can rejoin Fingertrip with a bolt TR, your second will be looking a potentially ugly swing into the slab.
By tom donnelly
May 21, 2012
On the direct start to P1,
you don't have to go directly past the first bolt.
Straight up past the first bolt is more than 10d.
You need a 1" cam below the bush, where you join the original route, as indicated in the guidebook.