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Crimes of Passion
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 1.5 from 8
votes
Routes in West Face - Right Side
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Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Desperado TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dos Equis Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pearly Gate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slab, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turbo Flange T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bob Gaines Charlie Peterson August 1987, Direct Start Gob Gaines and Charlie Peterson August 1997 |
| Page Views: | 1,790 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Sep 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Crimes of Passion climbs parallel to Fingertrip, crosses at the second pitch arch and continues until the eponymous Fingertrip Traverse.
Pitch 1:
Original Start: Startup Fingertrip, but traverse left after about 40 feet.
Direct Start: Start as for The Slab, up and right of the start of Fingertrip. Climb toward a visible bolt on a short headwall. Clipping the bolt/slapping the top of the headwall is an exercise in height, balance, or some combo of both. Pull the mantle, and attempt to avoid "beached whale syndrome". Do the same to the next easier mantle (with a bolt) to join the original start.
The climbing through the next three bolts is for the most part continuous 5.10 climbing, not always with the comfort of a quickdraw in front of your face. You are pretty much out of sight for everyone on the ground, so while your heroics will go unnoticed, sound travels quite well so your histrionics will be.
Pitch 2: Climb up and left of the belay to a bolt, then work the flakes up to the arch (optional belay here). Cross Fingertrip and climb the "upper arch" to a bolt and a baffling slab move to join Fingertrip Traverse. Belay as far up and left as your rope will allow.
Pitch 3: Join the pack train up to Lunch Ledge and beyond. Remember the alternate finish to the right of the "1 Bolt Slab", or be prepared to queue endlessly.
Pitch 1:
Original Start: Startup Fingertrip, but traverse left after about 40 feet.
Direct Start: Start as for The Slab, up and right of the start of Fingertrip. Climb toward a visible bolt on a short headwall. Clipping the bolt/slapping the top of the headwall is an exercise in height, balance, or some combo of both. Pull the mantle, and attempt to avoid "beached whale syndrome". Do the same to the next easier mantle (with a bolt) to join the original start.
The climbing through the next three bolts is for the most part continuous 5.10 climbing, not always with the comfort of a quickdraw in front of your face. You are pretty much out of sight for everyone on the ground, so while your heroics will go unnoticed, sound travels quite well so your histrionics will be.
Pitch 2: Climb up and left of the belay to a bolt, then work the flakes up to the arch (optional belay here). Cross Fingertrip and climb the "upper arch" to a bolt and a baffling slab move to join Fingertrip Traverse. Belay as far up and left as your rope will allow.
Pitch 3: Join the pack train up to Lunch Ledge and beyond. Remember the alternate finish to the right of the "1 Bolt Slab", or be prepared to queue endlessly.
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