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Wildfire Wall
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Wildfire 

Crime Wave 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Lester, 1983
Page Views: 657
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on May 30, 2006
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Once past the the initial 10', this excellent route is a technical face climb up the tips crack with gear for protection. I found crux moves 20' - 30' high and in the final 15'. Allegedly, a fixed piton(s) protected the upper crux section at one time but is no longer present. I used BD #2 and #3 microstoppers to sew up the seam, hence the PG13 rating.


Location 

Begin just right of Gruff on the right side of the Wildfire Wall.


Protection 

Many small camming units and very small - medium stoppers are required for pro. I didn't use anything larger than a #1 TCU. Rappel off of the anchors at the top of Gruff.



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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

Awesome TR after Gruff. You'll want a directional (green C3 worked). Would be a heady lead at the top......