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 ADVANCED
(2) Wildfire Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Finger T 
Bad Finger Extended (BFE)  T 
Caning, The S 
Cornercopia T 
Crime Wave T 
Cry of the Poor T 
Gruff T 
Iron Cross T 
Just Say Yes S 
Lion of Judah S 
Mad Man T,TR 
Neutral Zone T 
On The Road T 
Out Of Darkness T 
Pure Palm S 
Resuscitation S 
Rim Job T 
Soft Touch T 
Split Decision T 
Titus T 
Try To Be Hip S 
White Trash S 
Wildfire T 

Crime Wave 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Lester, 1983
Page Views: 944
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on May 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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nic on crime wave

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Once past the the initial 10', this excellent route is a technical face climb up the tips crack with gear for protection. I found crux moves 20' - 30' high and in the final 15'. Allegedly, a fixed piton(s) protected the upper crux section at one time but is no longer present. I used BD #2 and #3 microstoppers to sew up the seam, hence the PG13 rating.

Location 

Begin just right of Gruff on the right side of the Wildfire Wall.

Protection 

Many small camming units and very small - medium stoppers are required for pro. I didn't use anything larger than a #1 TCU. Rappel off of the anchors at the top of Gruff.


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Awesome TR after Gruff. You'll want a directional (green C3 worked). Would be a heady lead at the top......
By Daniel Vakili
5 days ago

I slung a horn with a sling on the ledge before the final thin face, so I knew I would technically be ok. got a small nut in before heading off up that face, feeling like a champ until pulling the last bulge. i looked down, and saw how far away that tiny little nut was, and there was NOTHING to place on my rack. I yelled "Jesus!". I was ready to bite that spicy pepper, but suddenly found a tiny blind nut placement around the corner, placed my last nut which I had pulled from a previous placement earlier on, and finished up with mild sauce. Sustained in the body, sustained in the mind, sustained in the soul.
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