Crime Wave  5.11b PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Alan Lester, 1983 Submitted By:  Vernon Stiefel on May 30, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

nic on crime wave

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>> For 2012 closure info, see smithrock.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/routes/eagle-closure-2>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Once past the the initial 10', this excellent route is a technical face climb up the tips crack with gear for protection. I found crux moves 20' - 30' high and in the final 15'. Allegedly, a fixed piton(s) protected the upper crux section at one time but is no longer present. I used BD #2 and #3 microstoppers to sew up the seam, hence the PG13 rating.

Location 

Begin just right of Gruff on the right side of the Wildfire Wall.

Protection 

Many small camming units and very small - medium stoppers are required for pro. I didn't use anything larger than a #1 TCU. Rappel off of the anchors at the top of Gruff.