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Snickers - North Face
Routes Sorted
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Bakersfield T 
Crime of the Century T 
Don't Think Just Jump T 
Frankenwood T 
Fresno T 
Funny Bone T 
Humerous T 
Joyride S 
Knightshift T 
Mrs. Carvey Danison T 
Norwegian Wood T 
Ridiculous Finish, The T 
Thunderwood S 
Time in the Penitentiary (aka: Two Flew the Coop) T 
Ulnar Nerve T 
Way of Life S 

Crime of the Century 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Waugh & Nick Badyrka, January 1978
Page Views: 3,352
Submitted By: David Evans on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Jon Hartmann about to place the first piece

Description 

Hard moves over a roof (the crux) to a strenuous handcrack lead to a ledge with rap anchor. The upper part is seldom done but continues up steep and varied crack climbing.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3"


Photos of Crime of the Century Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Shore grabs the onsight on Crime of the Ce...
Richard Shore grabs the onsight on Crime of the Ce...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cranking the roof
Cranking the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Joyce on Crime of the Century
Joyce on Crime of the Century
Rock Climbing Photo: taken by janet
taken by janet
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost home free for the roof section.
Almost home free for the roof section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the roof on Crime of the Century (5.11a), Jo...
Above the roof on Crime of the Century (5.11a), Jo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Killer hand jam to giant mail slot
Killer hand jam to giant mail slot
Rock Climbing Photo: Roy McClenahan, 1982
Roy McClenahan, 1982
Rock Climbing Photo: At the lip of the roof on Crime of the Century (5....
At the lip of the roof on Crime of the Century (5....
Rock Climbing Photo: Crime of the Century! A definite MUST DO!!!!
Crime of the Century! A definite MUST DO!!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: The rest of the climb is awesome hand jams but it ...
The rest of the climb is awesome hand jams but it ...

Comments on Crime of the Century Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A nice climb with a "sport climber's" start up overhanging jugs to reach the slanting hand crack. Rap off anchors on a ledge 50' up or grovel up an unpleasant chimney to finish.
By Murf
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The second pitch is worth doing once, thin crack to chimmney.
By Randy
Nov 10, 2003

The "official" info that Tony Yaniro was on FA is actually incorrect. Tony showed this line to Mike and Nick and they all bouldered up it (doing the crux) and climbed back down. They agreed to return when they had more time to lead the entire route. The next weekend, Tony didn't show so Mike and Nick did the route w/o Tony. Tony later sent in FA info to Mountain Magazine crediting FA to he, Mike & Nick, because he had done the crux earlier. This info got picked up and was used in all guides since. It has been corrected in Vol.1. as have a number of other long standing FA mistakes.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 25, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Protects well. Stays a little steeper than you might expect after the roof. If it's cold (this face stays a bit chilly) or you're super gassed (like I was), you may want a 3.5" piece to protect the last body length or so to the belay (which I didn't have, but a tipped out #3 camalot worked ok). The climbing is dead easy in that last little bit with plentiful face holds to help out, you certainly don't NEED a 3.5...but when you can't feel your fingers or close your hand...you might want one.
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Apr 26, 2012

The hardest part of this lead was catching my 180lb second when he failed to turn the roof. Determined, I think he pulled it on his 5th go. I recall the upper crack being enjoyable, but maybe a tad anti-climactic?

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