This is a new route that went in last season. It climbs the face directly right of 80 feet of Meat, and takes on the overhang up above. Climb the interesting face, up to a dihedral rest. From there, go on to climb the overhang through some difficult climbing to a final toss to a jug. The route is largely clean, but it is newer than others on the wall so watch out for loose stuff. Overall, a great route that tests you at the end.
14 bolts to lowering rings.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Nov 20, 2007
FA: HERMAN GOLLNER (According to the 2002 edition of Western Sloper by Dave Pegg. There is a picture of Herman on page 23 and the route description tells the story behind the route name.)
This route has its own warm-up. Begin with 5.9 past the first three or four bolts to a rest ledge. Then 5.11 up to a no-hands stem/rest under the roof. The warm-up ends with the 5.12a overhang.
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 30, 2008
I agree the extension is in an awesome position; but aside from that, I can think of little to recommend it. Chossy rock, awkward groveling, hard to reach clips. I would do C&P again, but I would definitely skip the extension. Also, I wouldn't hang your hat on the 11b grade suggested by SplitterChoss.
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 15, 2009
Havent done the extension but to the first anchor is one of the best enduro 12a's in the canyon. The rock has totally cleaned and provides thoughtful pumpy climbing all the way with a few classic Rifle rests to make it reasonable.
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I'd say the extension has cleaned up pretty nicely. I found all the clips easy once I got to them. Probably 11d, but a friend of mine who climbs considerably harder than I do called it 12a. Need an 80m rope or lower twice.