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Cretin's Retreat 
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Cretin's Retreat 

5.10c

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
FA: to original anchors, Stu Stuller, Pete Pollard, 1981 entire route, Chuck Buzzard, 1983
Submitted By: pointy on Nov 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

It's the obvious corner in the middle of the crag. Stemming and jamming the finger crack gets you most of the way up, with the crux coming at the top when the crack runs out. This route shares a bolted anchor with The Ferret's Dead.


Location 

Parched Cat cliff, this is the first really obvious corner you encounter after scrambling down from the rim.


Protection 

Gear to 2.5 inches



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By rpc
Sep 21, 2007

Thought this was better than Wildfire next door that gets 4 stars from Watts (longer & more sustained stemming).

By Max Tepfer
From: Central Oregon
Sep 6, 2012

Ditto on this being better than Wildfire. There's an extension called Orifice (10b) now doable with a 70m rope, a couple of draws and medium/small cams. Worth doing!