|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1100', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Kevin Currigan on May 27, 2006|
|Comments on Crestone Peak North Buttress||Add Comment|
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By Kevin Currigan
May 18, 2008
|If you want to see a good photo of this mountain's north face, go to 14ers.com. Under Kit Carson, there is a 360 degree panorama. You can see the line perfectly looking SE. It's a great shot.|
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Aug 3, 2009
|Your description sounds like it is for Crestone Peak's North Buttress, not a route on the Needle....|
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Aug 30, 2010
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
|Based on a USGS topo, this route probably starts at about 13,300, and tops out on East Crestone at about 14,240, so only about 900 vert feet total (maybe ~1100+ with the traverses). I solo'd it in ~1.5 hours, so not Grade IV.|
By Todd Ra
Aug 8, 2014
Did this route a couple days ago and had a few things to add:
1) Doing the route from the Humboldt saddle is not necessarily a bad idea. The traverse from there is a fun class 3 scramble in and of itself.
2) The Buttress starts pretty much immediately after you get to the peak. We got a little lost trying to make it to further ridge lines thinking we were on the wrong one. Also, don't follow the cairns into the NW couloir!
3) Lastly, forget the rope and rack. The crux is downclimbing and traversing with very sparse pro, and it will drastically slow your progress. We did almost all of it in hiking boots no problem. Took out the rock shoes just for some peace of mind halfway through the crux :)
Super exposed, super awesome!
Definitely go for the traverse afterwards. It's a cakewalk after the Buttress and makes a great tour.